Fitting an LED Spot into a loft hatch? | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Fitting an LED Spot into a loft hatch? in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Please send me a picture of a Push Fit connection unit, that used use with stranded flex.👍
 

I think we're being trolled. Having said that I've had a few ales. But I can still punctuate with the best of them. Hurrah.

I'm fact, I'm an assesor of beer drinking. Cheers! Beer.
 
Hi nicebutdim,
Please don’t use CHEAP push fit connectors.!
FLEX doesn’t connect well with Push Fit connectors ( hence why we use Feral's ).
Lever operated Wago may perform better.
But Feral crimping is more acceptable.

Cheap push fit connectors are supplied with lights linked by OP and can be seen connected in one of the images. I'll eat my hat if ferrules have been used.

In this instance the push fit connectors have a button to release and are perfectly fine for use with flex - it's just that the connectors supplied with cheap light fittings can be hit and miss when it comes to gripping cable.
 
Wago 773 range isn't suitable for use with fine stranded cables.
Thankyou nicebutdim,
I thought I was going mad.

And ferrules can be used with Wago connection units!
 

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I don't think SY cable is classed as fine stranded.
I think we’re straying from the point.

Which was:- over engineering my cable choice from PVC or UPVC flex between a loft hinged access light fitting, 1 meter into a loft using 1.5 3c SY as the clients property had an infestation of 🐿🐁.

What would you guys have used???
 
Thankyou nicebutdim,
I thought I was going mad.

And ferrules can be used with Wago connection units!


The indents left by the crimping tool on the ferrule could catch on the leaf spring and cause it to get stuck.

Using boot lace ferrules creates a highly loaded point of conduction in the clamp. This both reduces the current carrying capacity and potentially increase the chance of a poor contact if oxidised. Cage clamp terminals are designed to encourage wrap of the stripped bare cables around the internal clamp contact. This increases the contact area considerably.
 
The indents left by the crimping tool on the ferrule could catch on the leaf spring and cause it to get stuck.

Using boot lace ferrules creates a highly loaded point of conduction in the clamp. This both reduces the current carrying capacity and potentially increase the chance of a poor contact if oxidised. Cage clamp terminals are designed to encourage wrap of the stripped bare cables around the internal clamp contact. This increases the contact area considerably.
 

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The indents left by the crimping tool on the ferrule could catch on the leaf spring and cause it to get stuck.

Using boot lace ferrules creates a highly loaded point of conduction in the clamp. This both reduces the current carrying capacity and potentially increase the chance of a poor contact if oxidised. Cage clamp terminals are designed to encourage wrap of the stripped bare cables around the internal clamp contact. This increases the contact area considerably.
I welcome your response, but as a 3c 1.5 flex has over 20+ individual strands within each core, it’s often very awkward to guarantee a sound connection with these lever type push in connections, especially if your daisy chaining 2 inputs on each lever for L N CpC.

As we all know, just one of those annoying strands can split away/across and arc.

Also, you can’t guarantee that the entire twisted strand has fully entered the lever enclosure and not just crumpled up inside.

A further question I’d ask you, is

For what reason we’re Ferrels introduced to the electrical industry.???
 

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