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Help! - Shower Pull Switch, wires too short!

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Bootneck73h

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Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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ferg said:
It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.
Click to expand...
The fact that it happens is enough to put it in the last resort bracket for me.

Dry liner boxes were not designed for that and would be dependent on the strength of the plaster, how good the plaster is fixed to the ceiling and where between the joists that the liner would be.

Also, there are unknowns that can happen at a later date, like a water leak.

I would rather use a noggin, drill a hole for cable and mount the switch properly.

If a flush switch is wanted, then use a metal back box fixed to the noggin.
 
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littlespark said:
Metal boxes like to bite my hands. And those extra two fixing lugs are just a nuisance.

Nothing to stop you adding a noggin above a dry liner…. Just for extra
Click to expand...
A coupe of screws though a plastic dry liner is never going to be as strong as a metal backbox.

fitting something that wasn’t intended for that use is always going to be a bit of a bodge.

Best way is to avoid pull cords I’ve seen lots with multi cords for fan, towel rail ,wall heater and light it looked like something out of the Adam’s family.
 
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Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?
 
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Mike Johnson said:
Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?
Click to expand...

Don't think a kinetic switch will meet requirements for a shower isolator!
 
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Mike Johnson said:
Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.
Click to expand...
I would think so as it's very common to have RCD protected circuits supplying switches, especially on a wall :)
Mike Johnson said:
How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?
Click to expand...
They have their place, but I'm not a fan of kinetic in the respect of reliability compared to hardwired, if it uses electronics then It's going to fail at some point.
 
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Knee jerk reaction as usual, the problem is In a bathroom, keep up mainline.

Kinetic switch's have proven to be reliable so far, had them in our place in France for a number of years, saved chasing down stone walls.
 
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Quinetic amazing, but I'd never use for that application.
My preferred installation is to mount the isolator outside the bathroom. Bring the 10mm cable into a dual box, plenty of room for terminations, DP switch in one side, cable into the other "half"...easy to switch on/off and plenty of room to make terminations.
 
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