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Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
Oh dear,… As you mentioned it’s the loft above this ‘Pull Cord’ ISO then id certainly suggest getting above the pull cord and fitting a suitable 40/45amp JB and run a new T&E.

I fully commend my colleague who suggested cutting out and fitting a dry liner.
But as this an ‘Isolator Pull Cord’. I could imagine that within a number of operational pulls those feeble plastic wings will give way.???🙏

If however the cables are routing down next to a joint then ‘Jog On’, cut and fit a dry liner, multi- tool out a bit of the joist above and as well as the plastic wings, also screw up into the remaining joist.

Hope this helps.
 
Its A design Fault! The problem only became really bad when the manufacturers stopped putting 2 fixing screws on each terminal perhaps they could start doing that again, especially for 10mm cable the second screw helps to flatten the cores into a good connection and a good wriggle and re-tighten means the problem happens far less often but someone needs to design out the loose cable issue before we have to install metal Switches like the DBs
 
Its A design Fault! The problem only became really bad when the manufacturers stopped putting 2 fixing screws on each terminal perhaps they could start doing that again, especially for 10mm cable the second screw helps to flatten the cores into a good connection and a good wriggle and re-tighten means the problem happens far less often but someone needs to design out the loose cable issue before we have to install metal Switches like the DBs
[ElectriciansForums.net] Help! - Shower Pull Switch, wires too short!
 
When this repair has been completed, preferably using a switch without a neon indicator, turn the switch on, and never turn it off again, unless someone is making a repair on the shower that requires its cover to be removed. It's an isolator for maintenance purposes.
There's a very small fire risk with the isolator on.
A shower installer said he sees it very occasionally
 
There's a very small fire risk with the isolator on.
A shower installer said he sees it very occasionally
Fire risk is minimal when no current is being drawn. l Not much different from any other permanently live cable in a house.
Tracking could occur at the connector block inside the shower, especially if it's already been cooked by a poor connection and a bit of moisture's got in, but the RCD should deal with that before things get anywhere near ignition.
The fire risk is orders of magnitude more for poor connections in ceiling mounted 45A switches!
 

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