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Mjward

DIY
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
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Location
West Yorkshire
Hello

I'm a competent DIY electrician within the home , COVID gave me time to study City & Guilds although my attention was focused on everything within the home.

I've recently replaced my decking and now looking at wiring in the lighting (ip65 240v up/down lights on the decking posts). An electrician hired by the previous owners had simply daisy chained 1.5mm flex/PVC to light fittings but initial searches suggested running SWA to a dedicated junction/wiska box to each fitting THEN running 1.5mm PVC to the light fitting itself.

Two questions if I may:

1) is SWA a requirement when 100% of the route will be above ground
2) what is the maximum permitted distance from the wiska box to the light fitting itself?

Thanks in advance
 
Abandon the 230V lights idea, and go for low voltage stuff.
I've had unpleasant experiences. Got low voltage LED and drivers internally, but externally was a maintenance issue unfortunately. Have already got the lights, Coastal up/downlights but know that whether it be light fitting or junction box the primary source of failure is water ingress.

Although I've got the SWA and glands, I'm hoping that the requirement is for buried applications and they're a right faff to terminate
 
It's far removed from 3183.
Sorry you're right, its been a long day, actually meant H07RN-F.

I'm against the clock from installation perspective, need it in tomorrow as access gets restricted from Tuesday. Worst case I stick with the SWA I've got on hand, but ideally switch to NYY-J or H07RN-F if I can get hold of on a bank holiday
 
Hit a fairly major snag and I shouldn't be surprised.







Super quick history: previous owners had extension built and almost every aspect has cowboy written all over it. Fitting these lights is a very delayed project. The original outside lights (on this circuit) consisted of a wall light and decking floor lights. The latter were left dangling through the rotten decking and seal had gone, so whenever the light switch was used the FCU would trip.







Recently, I removed the decking floor lights and temporarily terminated their input cable into a junction box (and replaced the decking). From this act, when I flicked the switch the wall light would work and the FCU wouldn't trip. I made the incorrect assumption that it was just an issue with the lights etc.







Fast forward to today, I've just turned the outside lights on, wall light on, but getting nothing from the decking input cable. Thought maybe just pen reader issue, but multimeter confirms the same.







Opened up the junction box next to the working wall light in the hope of some clues, but ignoring the cowboy wiring I should have expected, there was no sign of the white rubber decking cable. To the sole switch that activates this circuit is just standard 1.5mm grey t&e.







So I'm struggling with the logic here. If removing a suspected water ingress light fitting stopped the circuit tripping, then to me that implies that wherever the cowboys buried this hidden junction box connecting this cable from the decking to the switch must still be connected so I don't understand how I'm left holding a dead end
 
I posted too soon... Think I found the source...and.. wow...

[ElectriciansForums.net] External lighting and wiring requirements
 
Was part of the issue. Connected it up and nothing. Then opened up the junction box next to the light fitting and although also questionable (earth sleeving seems to be optional) did not fix it.

[ElectriciansForums.net] External lighting and wiring requirements

So moved on to the next item, the wall light, and low and behold there was lonely line terminated into a single choc box waiting to receive some love.

[ElectriciansForums.net] External lighting and wiring requirements

Anyway, a lot of faff latter (used a mix of SWA and H07RN depending on location), we have working lights

[ElectriciansForums.net] External lighting and wiring requirements


Only problem I have now, is that two of the plastic screw head have no thread and don't really know what their proper name is to source replacements. It's to tighten the main light body onto the wall mount threads. Have contacted Toolstation but not hopeful

[ElectriciansForums.net] External lighting and wiring requirements
 
They are called "dome nuts" and a good old style hardware shop will sell them.
Screwfix do sell the larger sizes in quantity! If you can be sure of the M size, you can get them on the internet.
Brilliant thank you. Think I'll get an assorted variety as I'm sure I'll come across them again
 
Hit a fairly major snag and I shouldn't be surprised.







Super quick history: previous owners had extension built and almost every aspect has cowboy written all over it. Fitting these lights is a very delayed project. The original outside lights (on this circuit) consisted of a wall light and decking floor lights. The latter were left dangling through the rotten decking and seal had gone, so whenever the light switch was used the FCU would trip.







Recently, I removed the decking floor lights and temporarily terminated their input cable into a junction box (and replaced the decking). From this act, when I flicked the switch the wall light would work and the FCU wouldn't trip. I made the incorrect assumption that it was just an issue with the lights etc.







Fast forward to today, I've just turned the outside lights on, wall light on, but getting nothing from the decking input cable. Thought maybe just pen reader issue, but multimeter confirms the same.







Opened up the junction box next to the working wall light in the hope of some clues, but ignoring the cowboy wiring I should have expected, there was no sign of the white rubber decking cable. To the sole switch that activates this circuit is just standard 1.5mm grey t&e.







So I'm struggling with the logic here. If removing a suspected water ingress light fitting stopped the circuit tripping, then to me that implies that wherever the cowboys buried this hidden junction box connecting this cable from the decking to the switch must still be connected so I don't understand how I'm left holding a dead end
N to E fault can cause rcd tripping it will do that without having a L feed.
 

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