timer for lighting 3 x 150w halogen

OP

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• May 18, 2012

• #16

well ive ended up using a contactor . prey ive got it right, a guy drew a diagram for me. probly turn on power and the shutters and they go up and down:ban:

 

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OP

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• May 19, 2012

• #17

time clock / contactor

5 linked to 3 / 1

4 / 3

2 / A2

.... / A1 to 2

then 2 on contactor to light Live and 4 on contactor as neutral???
is this correct from my time clock to contactor.


this is rubbish!!!! pay no head .

 

Last edited: May 20, 2012

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Richard Burns

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• May 20, 2012

• #18

Not sure what you are describing there but sounds like you have 4 as neutral and which will switch with 3, which is connected to 5 and 1 so there is no place for the line to go and you are switching the neutral.
Also A1 and A2 seem to be connected to 2. this does not sound right.
Diagram here of various possibilities for wiring lighting through a timer switched contactor.

Not sure which one you are intending to use.

 

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• May 20, 2012

• #19

grasslin 24hr socket box timer i used and 20A hager contatcor

from spur L to 5 linked 3 to 1 on contactor
N to 4 to 3 on contactor 3 linked to A2 on contactor
2 to A1 on contactor
2 on contactor to L on light
4 on contactor to neutral..

 

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Richard Burns

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• May 20, 2012

• #20

i=p/u said:

grasslin 24hr socket box timer i used and 20A hager contatcor

from spur L to 5 linked 3 to 1 on contactor OK
N to 4 to 3 on contactor Remove 3 linked to A2 on contactor No, link A2 to Neutral
2 to A1 on contactor Need the output from the timer to go to A1
2 on contactor to L on light OK
4 on contactor to neutral. No, remove.

Click to expand...

You would short line and neutral with this arrangement.

N to 4 to 3 and spur L to 5 linked 3 to 1 is a direct short L to N
4 to 3 will short out once contactor operates.
2 to A1 means the contactor will only operate once the lights are on, which will not happen because you need to power A1 to turn the light on!
You should remove all neutral connections from the contactor except for one to the coil (normally A2)
Supply the switched line from the timer to A1.


So overall permanent line to 5 and linked to 3 and 1
Line out to lights connected to 2 or 3 or 4
Timed Line connected to A1
Neutral connected to A2

Supply timer and lights with neutral from the neutral supply

 

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J

JUD

• May 20, 2012

• #21

Here you go...

 

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P

Philpot

• May 20, 2012

• #22

It is also helpful to wire a Photocell into the coil feed so that the lights only come on if it's dark enough and go off when its gets light in the morning. It is also possible to set the timer for ,say, 2300hrs so the lights go off( if they are not required). This arrangements removes the need to adjust the clock for lighting up time. It can also be used with a PIR so that they only come on if there is an intruder. This will make your brain hurt!!!

Philpot

 

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Richard Burns

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• May 21, 2012

• #23

Looking at the timer wiring diagram I realise you may have been referring to numbers from the timer and numbers from the contactor so I have drawn the connections on the timer wiring diagram and a contactor picture, even though Jud has shown it very well this may also help.

 

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OP

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• May 21, 2012

• #24

well it is hard to describe fully on internet what i have exactly done, but there must be many ways to wire these contactors. a spark i work with sometimes(aged 45) had drawing me a diagram and i followed and this set up worked.

well it worked via on and off, not setting timer till end of summer.. and i appreciate all your help in talking about what lights etc.. i do i do i do... the drawing is very close to yours richard burns except the neutral is going through 3 on contactor and linked too A2 on contactor.. so i assume breaking the neutral too.???

well first time ive worked with contactor so onwards and upwards just need to know how it functions inside out.. ps got payed and all so happydays and the lights look well. he was abit sketchy about the price but hey ho..

 

Last edited: May 21, 2012

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