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Shower pull switchs which need replacing

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KevinS

Had my NICEIC assessment today, all went well.
We got onto the subject of functional switching and they agreed that a switch for the shower is not necessary. My thoughts are, in future I am thinking about crimping the cables instead of putting in a new pull switch.
Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.
Ps my main reason for this is:- I see lots of these switches burnt out where the tenants switch the shower off (still under load) and by crimping thru it is one less point for a problem to occur.
Just thought I could use the red wago's which will take 6mm and are rated at 41A
Any thoughts?
 
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Strima said:
That seems a bit specific, what happens if there's no suitable ceiling space?
Click to expand...

Lol I know , but we live in the real word.
 

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I got called out to a faulty shower pull cord a couple of weeks ago. As I was lowering it from the back box, all the cables popped right out of the terminals. Obviously the guy hadn't bothered re-tightening after initially pushing the switch into place to seat the cables.
The owner then started telling me how impressed he had been with the electrician, as "only a few weeks before fitting the shower he had been a photographer".
I just smiled....

So, in my opinion....yes, most shower pull cord problems are down to installation.
 
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The Crabtree (or cheaper identikit Scolmore one) iso is great as you mount the base first, and the connections are on that, rather than having to pee about with upside down cable. 10mm nice and tight = no problem.
 
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On the manufacturers instructions arguement, how many of you bond kitchen sinks? They still ask for this to be done and most have an earthing/bonding tag still.

As for double pole isolation for the shower( how often it is required) it could be argued that the isolator at the board is to requirements, i know it might result in total darkness if isolated but seeing as it would only be used in an emergency then not too much of a problem
 
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They take a little time to do a good job on (ceiling pull cord switches). Last one I did was a good paying job, so I went right over the top and spent AGES doing it.

Even with 10mm2, if you make sure the two cables enter the ceiling pattress the right way in relation to the terminals, cut all cores to absolutely the right length (so no attempt to squish is required), and leave clipping the cables to joists until AFTER the switch is screwed tight, then it can be made to fit like a glove.

Which is why I still chuckle thinking about a one day rewire. Would take a 1/4 of that to do the pull cord (properley).

Bayonet fixed!
 
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