Shower pull switchs which need replacing

[KevinS]

Had my NICEIC assessment today, all went well.
We got onto the subject of functional switching and they agreed that a switch for the shower is not necessary. My thoughts are, in future I am thinking about crimping the cables instead of putting in a new pull switch.
Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.
Ps my main reason for this is:- I see lots of these switches burnt out where the tenants switch the shower off (still under load) and by crimping thru it is one less point for a problem to occur.
Just thought I could use the red wago's which will take 6mm and are rated at 41A
Any thoughts?

 

[Snapester]

Oh yeah 10mm is classic, although i have had some 16mm ones!! they get me sweating!

 

[Guest55]

the simple answer is to fit a D/P switch in the meter cupboard or next to CU.
i doubt the manufacterers instructions specify for it to be fitted "local" to the bathroom.

 

[ruston]

the simple answer is to fit a D/P switch in the meter cupboard or next to CU.
i doubt the manufacterers instructions specify for it to be fitted "local" to the bathroom.

Lol Redring do.(on the ceiling)

 

[Strima]

Lol Redring do.(on the ceiling)

That seems a bit specific, what happens if there's no suitable ceiling space?

 

[Guest55]

then dont buy redring.
In fact , dont buy any brand that tries to tell me how to do my own god damn job.
;-)

 

[ruston]

That seems a bit specific, what happens if there's no suitable ceiling space?

Lol I know , but we live in the real word.

 

[Guitarist]

I got called out to a faulty shower pull cord a couple of weeks ago. As I was lowering it from the back box, all the cables popped right out of the terminals. Obviously the guy hadn't bothered re-tightening after initially pushing the switch into place to seat the cables.
The owner then started telling me how impressed he had been with the electrician, as "only a few weeks before fitting the shower he had been a photographer".
I just smiled....

So, in my opinion....yes, most shower pull cord problems are down to installation.

 

[kingeri]

Pull cords are a great British tradition and I will always continue to fit them!

 

[Octopus]

Pull cords are a great British tradition and I will always continue to fit them!

Especially if its the Crabtree 50A version!

 

[tevion]

Ive found that the switches/pull cords with 2 terminal screws are pretty good, is it crabtree that do them? Its been a while since ive came across one.

 

[Rockingit]

The Crabtree (or cheaper identikit Scolmore one) iso is great as you mount the base first, and the connections are on that, rather than having to pee about with upside down cable. 10mm nice and tight = no problem.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

If you rely on the MCB can you argue you have double pole isolation?

No need to argue, BS7671:2008+A1:2011 537.1.2 & 537.2.1.1 allows single pole isolation if it's a single phase TN system. Double pole isolation though is required for a single phase TT system.

 

[jumpin jax]

On the manufacturers instructions arguement, how many of you bond kitchen sinks? They still ask for this to be done and most have an earthing/bonding tag still.

As for double pole isolation for the shower( how often it is required) it could be argued that the isolator at the board is to requirements, i know it might result in total darkness if isolated but seeing as it would only be used in an emergency then not too much of a problem

 

[Amp David]

Especially if its the Crabtree 50A version!

The only ones you can actually fit and 100% know that everything is ok once the cover is screwed back on.

Click also do the exact same switch for less pounds too.

 

[SPARTYKUS]

They take a little time to do a good job on (ceiling pull cord switches). Last one I did was a good paying job, so I went right over the top and spent AGES doing it.

Even with 10mm2, if you make sure the two cables enter the ceiling pattress the right way in relation to the terminals, cut all cores to absolutely the right length (so no attempt to squish is required), and leave clipping the cables to joists until AFTER the switch is screwed tight, then it can be made to fit like a glove.

Which is why I still chuckle thinking about a one day rewire. Would take a 1/4 of that to do the pull cord (properley).

Bayonet fixed!