tray work

amckay said:

I've started subbing on a site on Monday (the site has been active since July) and today I had to earth containment trays, putting copper bars over joints etc. Anyway its a 10 story building and it has a riser for cabling. However the trays in the riser are not continuous its just a 1.5m section thrown against the wall with around a 18 inch gap in between floors. So I'm linking them together by crimping 16mm2 and using 1 inch long bolts (they supplied them). The way i have bolted them is with the threaded shaft protruding the top of the tray where the cable lies. My supervisor rekons niceic will "fail" it as the cable sheeth could tear against it during installation. I don't know about the NIC-EIC failing it but I would.

Personally instead of swapping the bolts around, I rekon a bit of heat shrink will do the trick It won't

Am I wrong? Yes
Bearing in mind this is the first time I've done commercial as I've mainly done pat and domestics

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Boydy said:

And fit brass ones.

Boydy

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telectrix said:

not your fault, mate. as a trainee, you should have been told/shown the correct way. for future reference, it's almost always the case that the bolt heads go on the cable side of the containment with the nuts outside. and has been mentioned, dome head bolts should be used.

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davesparks said:

Beaten you again!

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RoB2 said:

I'm blaming the crap internet at this hotel.

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amckay said:

They were domed headed. I installed them that way as mentioned in op the bolts were 1 inch long and the gap was 1/2 - 3/4inch. So it was impossible for me to get my hands round the back to tighten up.

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rapparee said:

amckay said:

They were domed headed. I installed them that way as mentioned in op the bolts were 1 inch long and the gap was 1/2 - 3/4inch. So it was impossible for me to get my hands round the back to tighten up.

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Screw a nut right up to the head of the spouting bolt, put bolt in vice, cut the 10/15mm off the bolt and when you're finished take the nut back off the bolt, this will reform the thread.


If you think i'm telling you how to suck eggs i'm sorry, you're only an apprentice i don't know your level

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amckay said:

They were domed headed. I installed them that way as mentioned in op the bolts were 1 inch long and the gap was 1/2 - 3/4inch. So it was impossible for me to get my hands round the back to tighten up.

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trev said:

You're right. I dropped loads of bolox when I was serving my time though.

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CockneyReject said:

use the holes on the side of the tray instead or get shorter bolts?? If you've realised that you can't get your hand in then surely bolting it to the side is the better idea as how the hell are you going to get a roofing bolt tight enough without using a dirty great big flat head to hold it in place, **** poor mechanical connection there fella



I'm we all did trev, best way to learn lol

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CockneyReject said:

I'm we all did trev, best way to learn lol

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shanky887614 said:

light gauge doesnt have holes in the sides

keep your crap roofers and ill stick to my pozi head roofers

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trev said:

Specially when you get a clout round the head when you do make a mistake. Kind of drives the lesson home properly

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CockneyReject said:

you can keep your flimsy tray fella, don't use it, come to think of it I've only ever used it at college and yeah I really do like pozi headed roofers too especially when they come with proper nuts too but most firms are too tight to splash the cash for those

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