I've just seen the launch announcement about the new Quickwire T-Connector Plug & Socket in Professional Electrician & Installer Magazine. See here:
https://www.quickwire.co.uk/product/t-connector-plug-socket/
I'm a bit disappointed that they have chosen to release this product ahead of a 32A...
Thanks Risteard. I'm happy to accept that the I.S.201-4/N05VVH4-U cable is not compliant with BS 6004, but leads to another question: What BS or BS EN standards are designated for use for fixed wiring in the current UK wiring regulations?
I don't have access to the 18th Edition, hence me asking...
Thanks for everyone's input so far, and apologies for the typo in the Title of the thread - I referred to 6192Y in the title and 6193Y in the body of the post. 6193Y is the correct reference for the cable used in the ROI.
I'm curious as to how Risteard (whose expertise I know and respect)...
I understand that in Ireland domestic single phase wiring is done with 6193Y cables that have a CPC that is the main size as the phase and neutral conductors and is insulated.
Can anyone tell me what regulation in the 18th Edition (if any) would prevent this cable from being used in the UK?
If the space behind the appliances is just a few mm too short, fitting flush sockets might be a quicker/easier option. Recessed sockets exist, but you need more wall thickness than you will find in most houses to fit them!
My solution, which I haven't implemented yet, is to replace the TRVs with wired thermostats in every room, wired Actuators on every rad and a UFH Controller. Wavin's UFH controller is my current favorite. Unfortunately the thermostats only come in wireless battery or 24v wired format. I hate...
Make friends with the managers at your local wholesalers and arrange to spend time early in the mornings at each wholesaler handing out your CV to the sparks coming in. Dress for work, have your tools in the back of your car, and be ready to go with anyone who needs help that day.
Not sure...
Mark anything you buy with a dab or spray of coloured paint (in a location where it won't get worn away in use) so that you can identify your tools.
Get a rucksackstyle toolbag so you can carry a good range of tools comfortably.
If you do go down the standard breaker route, make sure you select a curve that will allow all the IT equipment to be powered up at once.
I was responsible for the electrical installation at 1000 seat contact centre. We had a power cut and when the power came back on, all the breakers tripped...
Sorry - I just noticed that the OP confirmed the pre-assembled floorboxes came with 5m cables, so each track should be protected with a 32A MCB. Under the circumstances, I would definitely call Legrand before insisting that the existing MCBs are downgraded.
The Electrak tracks (busbars) are rated for 63A, but the tap-offs are described as "32A" tap-offs. However, careful reading of the manufacturers specification (see link below) confirms that they only have to be limited to 32A if the attached cable is longer than 3m. So, if you have been supplied...
The problem is that the wiring is non-standard, so no-one on an internet forum can give you any accurate advice. You should find that red is live, but what is neutral and what is earth is anyone's guess.
Even if you determine how the circuit is wired at the consumer unit, you can't be...
If you find out who the Employer's Liability insurance is with, you could let them know anonymously via a letter. I would send a copy to the Director at your employers with responsibility for Health & Safety. If you don't know who this is, don't ask, just sent the letter to the Chief Operating...
If the water heaters don't store any water, they are of the instantaneous type and the On-site Guide suggests an allowance for diversity for such heater that results in the maximum demand being 32.6A. Given the UK power supply is often above 230V, I would say that this load is acceptable on a...
Is there a socket in the corridor? If there is, you could plug in a suitable lamp into the socket. The D-Line trunking available from Screwfix makes a neat job in some situations. You could hide the lamp flex inside such trunking.
I would say that you need to be more specific about the power you need vs. the weight of the screwdriver. Are you looking for a very light screwdriver with limited power, or a heavyweight, powerful unit?
Do you need any extra capabilities like hammer drilling or impact driving?
Is anyone know of any companies that recycle electrical accessories, especially white urea formaldehyde faceplates? Not sure if they can be handled as WEEE; anyone know?
Thanks
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