If I were you I would get some realistic loading figures. It's unlikely a circuit feeding two bedrooms will get anywhere close to 26A in this day and age. It's more likely going to be less then 2kW which is 8.3A which conveniently (using PrettyMouths approach) is a voltage drop of 11.5v I...
I wouldn't have been worrying about upgrading a 32A device to accommodate a 7.35kW load. We are allowed to apply diversity to cooking appliances which would probably mean we could get away with a smaller device but I suspect the appliance installation manual may state it should be installed on...
Without being there it's impossible to be certain, but based on what you've said I would be looking for a loose connection (or possibly more than one).
With loose connections, the voltage drop across the loose connection increases as the current draw goes up. This usually means lights get...
I would suggest it's a plug-in surge protector with provision for protecting a telephone line, a digital ISDN line or a network cable and an aerial cable.
I've just logged out, cleared my browser cache and cleared any data for this site. Whilst logged out, it was still showing as per my post above and now I've logged in again it's the same.
Update - Machine/Browser information
I'll add... I'm using Firefox 124.0.2 (64 bit version). OS is...
I can still remember my Mum drying my hair with one of the Morphy Richards hair dryers. And I still to this day marvel at how long my Grandma's old Russell Hobbs kettle lasted :) I'm sure you're not alone in feeling just that little bit older as your peruse the lots... I know I did
If you're using a current measuring mode on that multimeter, I'd say you're quite lucky not to have destroyed it... probably the panels can't provide enough power to do any damage.
The measurement you should be using is voltage. Specifically DC volts, most likely the 20 range. Then you would...
When I did my AM2, I had it drummed into me that I had to follow Guidance Note 3 carefully. So, did you follow the guidance in GN3 for checking the EFLI? The same thing was said when I did my test and inspection courses (C&G 2394 & 2395).
If you don't have Guidance Note 3, go and get a copy...
Unless I'm much mistaken (it's possible), there is no requirement for your test leads to be fused. I used my own MFT for my 2394/2395 and those leads weren't fused, fresh from the factory they were.
The reality is fuses will only really save you from incidents involving current measurement...
I've got a Socket & See SP200 and it's fine.
What instruments are you testing that can't deal with 400-690v? Personally I've only ever used it to test my approved voltage indicator which can handle those voltages and since that's the only thing you should be using to prove dead, I'm just...
Here in the UK for site work outside we would typically expect to be using a 110v isolating transformer (if I'm not mistaken, these are 55v-0v-55v, the center tap being used as the earth for the equipment connected to the secondary side of the transformer, with no direct links between any part...
When installed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions (which come with Wagoboxes), Wago's can be installed in a maintenance free way meaning they do not have to be accessible, but you must follow the instructions carefully.
If you look at the trip time/prospective current graph (Fig 3A4 on page 370 of the big blue book - assuming it's a 60898/61009 compliant device with a Type B curve), at 20A that device probably won't ever trip until it gets tired from years of running at it's maximum capacity.
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