Do you have info on the GJD system / module the transformer came out of? Even just a photo, if no model number?
I've worked on several old GJD lighting control systems, they were all 12V. And while obsolete, replacement (updated) parts were still available.
This is a bungalow with easy access in the loft from the consumer unit to the tops of all the walls? Then you can have as many radials as you want! For example a separate radial for the washer & dryer, or even a radial each if you wanted!
If some residents have electric cars, they are going to need to charge them, so I don't think the answer is to fit means of disabling charging! Instead, some reliable means of making those who use the power pay for it is needed. And you'd have to make it applicable to all the accessible...
You would normally put the two lighting circuits on separate RCDs, so one RCD tripping doesn't plunge the whole house into darkness. But it could be done this way because of a borrowed neutral e.g. the landing light (L supplied from downstairs, N to upstairs) and they couldn't be bothered to fix...
It could be there is some other reason for not sending the report, for example they lost the measurements (assuming they did actually make some, but it is hard to know how you'd spend 3 to 4 hours and not have). Was it the actual electrician who visited, or did he subcontract to someone who...
One thing I've noticed lately is an upturn in the number of spam calls & emails from people wanting to flog me stuff - advertising flyers, fuel cards, branded clothing, etc. Plus even more of the usual offers to design me a wizzy web site and put me at the top of search results. Also lots of...
If you only have one (presumably) 16A circuit, you can get a controller that connect two elements, but only allows one to be switched on at any one time. Typically used so the main lower element is put on at an off-peak time (over night) and the higher boost element when you need to top up the...
Its not clear how high then this worktop is above the oven, and how easy it would be to reach a switch above it. You mention 1500mm, in which case I'm inclined to think a switch at (say) 1700mm is getting a bit high to reach, when also you have to reach over the front of the oven, and moving to...
Re an oven isolator, you don't say exactly what is above the oven, but presumably the double oven is built into a tall carcase, with a cupboard above, and maybe also below? Plus space behind the carcase where you can run cables? In which case, often the isolator would be mounted in one of the...
If you visit Storage Heaters That Contain Asbestos - Models and Serial Numbers - https://www.armco.org.uk/asbestos-survey-news/storage-heaters-that-contain-asbestos/ you can download a list of asbestos-free storage heaters. In the case of Sunhouse, the lists states Asbestos-free models are...
If you read the Best Practice guide #4 for EICR coding (Nov 2022) from Electrical Safety FIrst, it states for "A Type AC RCD installed where a Type A RCD required" to be coded as C3.
So if (or when) the transfomer eventually fails, will it be documented which section of plasterboard to smash open?
Can you not hide this transformer somewhere accessible, e.g. in a downlight hole, or behind a small hatch? It doesn't have to be close by to the window, provided any connections...
The switch looks OK, avoid cable entry from the top, ideally use bottom entry gland positions, with proper glands. The LED indicator typically is wired so it lights up when the light is off, and this can cause problems with low-power LED lamps (unwanted flickering or flashing when switched off)...
The first thing is to make sure you have bought a decent switch and light that actually are weatherproof (if installed correctly). Some of the stuff sold is not really, despite what the manufacturer may claim. Perhaps post links to what you have bought?
To add to the above, assuming the cables come down from above, it is really that hard to re-route directly down to the new cooker isolator postion? If the wall is solid then the cupboard can be removed, and will hide most of the chasing when it is replaced.
Likely some incompatibility with the lamps (bulbs), the smart switch and also any driver in the fitting (if applicable, e.g. if they are e.g. 12V lamps). The wiring itself is unlikely to be an issue.
If there are corroded tracks, they may need repairing e.g. soldering a piece of wire across any break where the copper has been eaten away. You have to check if there is any damage anywhere, and if so, work out the best way of repairing it. You need to be familiar with PCB tracks, solder resist...
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc