As mentioned by nicebutdim, if I was planning to live there long-term, I'd want something that will be supported long-term. So much though I like and routinely install Fusebox, I'd have to wonder will they be around in 10 or 20 years, or would I end up looking on eBay for spares. It is hard to...
Perhaps work out which circuit it is powered from, that may (or may not) give some clues (e.g. by switching off circuit breakers).
Could it be some kind of whole-building ventilation unit?
Apologies for the digression, but all this reminds me of an issue with a rental property a few years back, I was there to fit a new consumer unit. The tenant was there to let me in before heading off to work, but cryptically told me he had put a board down in the bathroom to make access easier...
Round here, there are a lot of 1960's houses that were wired with these junction boxes for the lighting, using twin & earth into the top, and the pendant connections out to the bottom. The box is screwed to the underside of a timber noggin between joists (often a piece of old floorboard) with a...
You mention there are ten lights, which are presumably all fed from this one transformer. Typically they are 10W G4 lamps fitted, which equates to 100W, but the driver (transformer) you bought is only rated to supply 60W, so likely gives up if you load it with 100W. You need a driver rated for...
A quick check online, the cheapest I found one of these heaters was £80. If you could find a spare element, which don't seem to be available, you might find you don't get much change from £80, spare parts are almost always very overpriced, and that is not including fitting. In summary, you...
I normally use MK Logic Plus for white accessories, but recently used Hager Sollysta for a full house rewire, as a somewhat fussy customer requested them instead.
I was quite impressed, and have considered switching to the Sollysta, what has held me back is that in the UK there are many...
I can't comment specfically about NAPIT, but my experience (ELECSA, NICEIC) is that a CU change was sufficient for many years, but now is no longer so. I always used to offer a CU change as I did lots of these and it was easy to find one local for a site visit that was unlikely to throw up any...
The VentAxia ACT100T that was removed has an airflow spec of 61 L/s.
The new Addvent AVC075HLF has an airflow spec of only 26 L/s.
So the new fan is going to be less than half the airflow of the old one (assuming the old one was working properly).
You don't mention how long the ducting is, but...
The GN3 I have (17th edition, 2015) in section 3.2 says inspection & testing should be considered in a number of circumstances, including (in sub-section (c)), "on a change of occupancy". This pre-dates the 2020 private rental sector legislation, and I think at the time, few landlords actually...
Apologies if I missed it, but how long was the electrician on site? To complete the above table of results, they'd need to be there around half a day (assuming 1 person).
Many of the wires could be trimmed a lot to sensible lengths, and you could use the smaller 2273-series Wagos. After that, either chase the back box in deeper as mentined, or use spacers (on white faceplates).
A search of the part number comes up with a HITLIGHTS driver that looks exactly like the one you have, apart from the "GOOVER" replaced with "HITLIGHTS". Could be a legitimate alternative brand, or could be some copy.
It could also be the specific combination of the dimmer, the driver and the...
While I can't comment specifically for Siemens, it is common that many large companies are often not interested in helping anyone with second hand parts. They are only interested in selling you new parts.
An EICR outcome is either Satisfactory, or Unsatisfactory (not pass/fail).
Looking at the hole in the middle, I'm not sure it should have been satisfactory in 2018.
There will no doubt be observations about the lack of RCD protection for some circuits, as to whether these are C2 or C3 depends...
Superlec, for example, normally sell both Harmonized colours and Brown/Blue/GrY (and also for some sizes, Numbered cores). There is often a small price difference, I usually check both for the size/length I need, and buy the cheapest (unless there is a specific reason to want a particular type).
In a past life, when I used to travel a fair bit, I often came across these style of sockets in overseas conference rooms. Especially in Asia (Japan, Hong Kong etc). It did away with needing travel adapters, plugs from most countries just fitted, and most people were plugging in laptop chargers...
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