Why would anyone see the 3rd party thing as beneficial?
Personally I reckon I could do the work and self certify the whole thing quicker than all the agro that would come with trying to coach diyers and handymen to the point that they produced a compliant install. Plus, the main reason for...
I always find that you either have to lift a strip of floorboards above, or remove a strip of plasterboard below, in order to drill joists and run cables through to new lights. So once you've done that you can see the joist spacings and drill for downlights accordingly.
Not sure how you guys...
Not wanting to be an arse...but if they aren't redoing the entire bathroom, and are obviously happy with design of current towel rail, why does it need changing?
Just curious more than anything. If the element has gone, is it not possible to just change that?
Last few of these I've done have come with a pre installed flex, and very little space behind the mirror for a connection. I had been using the wago box lite boxes to make the connection behind the mirror, but this often requires chiselling a pocket out of the wall for the wagobox so the mirror...
Thing is, these make less sense than the no gland at all brigade. At least with those it's obvious they haven't a clue!
In these cases they have bothered to buy the gland, but have failed to fit properly, which just completely bemuses me!
After thinking about what I put earlier, what's the problem with a glass door anyway? Surely glass is also non combusible, albeit more likely to get broken.
Surely a standard 3 phase board with a steel door not a glass one would be satisfactory. Only issue I see is that the doors are side hinged not top hinged, but what are you realistically supposed to do about that?!
I guess you could spring load the door somehow so it shuts by itself, sounds...
I had problems with some mk shaver sockets that were being used to charge toothbrushes. Transformers were overheating and causing the front plate to crack. MK have since updated, and newer versions have a symbol of toothbrush on, not the 'shavers only' wording. No issues with the upgraded ones...
Bet the online calculator was using 90deg not 70deg...as normal!
Does beg the question, whats the point in 90deg XLPE, if you cant take advantage of the higher ccc as nobody appears to make accessories compatible with 90deg conductor temps!
Ah....I have to admit that I don't possess an electrode tester, and only use the efli test method on tt.
I had it in my head that if you did a bone-fide Ra test, then you were literally just testing the electrode to the test probes in isolation, i.e. the earthing conductor would not be connected...
A lot depends on the scope of your planned alterations. There isn't much mileage in paying out for an EICR if your alterations are going to mean that it will all get torn out anyway simply because it's in the wrong place!
If the place has got 1 single socket per bedroom, and you want 4 doubles...
I do split boards half and half, so RCD's off, MCBs on, test from busbars to earth and neutral bars.
Rcbos I test ccts individually with conductors removed from unit, half the time probes can't reach the screws, plus a lot are only single pole switching so concerned about frying them.
Assesor...
Yep ok, agree it wouldn't affect Ra if measured with electrode tester.
But it could change a Ze done with a loop tester, which I guess is what you're getting at?
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