Not sure if it's been said before but the only real worry you should have with the 3 phase in this scenario is which phase to use. A quick check on the main tails (around main meter/isolator) with a clamp meter should give you an idea.
Whether to come off of one of the already metered (&...
Good tie on, plenty of lube and you should be able to pull a 4mm T&E through using the existing 2.5mm as a draw surely? Least that way it's got an extra layer of protection.
The only way to control it with one Hive would be to combine up & down zones. You can also buy separate "add-on" thermostats once you have the base package with hub, etc.
I wouldn't put the UFH through a programmer as Heatmiser stats are typically programmable if needed. I'd go for a 3 channel programmer for HW, up rads & down TRs plus a separate 1 channel programmer or a timer for the HW return pump.
The UH8s should have boiler out terminals which I'd use to...
As littlespark has said, if you have no form of traditional style of storage heaters then there is absolutely no benefit to being on an economy rate.
As it's a modern house and presumably insulated properly, you should be able to leave it on 24/7 and let it regulate itself through the...
Fitted a few single phase Live boards which we acquired from our wholesalers while they were struggling to get hold of Hager for a bit last year. They are ok for a budget option - usual array of options for knockouts, decent enough space inside. The are let down by the horrible inner 16mm links...
I forgot to add, what drew me to the Veto was the pockets/layout. Bordering on OCD, everything being in it's own little pocket helps me sleep at night. No more having to empty half a tote out to find that 2.5mm screwdriver which always works it's way to the bottom. Also means you can tell at a...
I've had my tech-xl about 5 years, no issues with it other than it's a bit big so can be pretty heavy. I recently picked up a tp4b so I can just load up with job specific tools (if on a jobbing day) so that saves lugging the big fecker about.
Apologies, they're dry liners. Never read previous convo properly the first time.
I'm fortunate enough to live somewhere where 90% of properties I deal with are stud walls/kit or service-voided so it's very rare I'll use anything other than dry-liners or surface boxes.
Very much depends on sizes of rooms, manufacturer of mat, etc. Some mats run at 200w a square metre which would put bedrooms at 2-3kW each. Living room is defo gonna require a couple of supplies and possibly a contactor setup depending on if the client want's it to be controlled by one or...
For new builds here it's predominantly timber kit houses with service voids on outer walls. Internal walls can often be found with one side sheeted in OSB along load-bearing walls. What you've run into is common for us to find now. If we haven't been able to cut a section out ahead of the walls...
Ansell Prism Pro Gimbal might be worth a look. Haven't personally fitted any but fitted loads of the regular Prisms without issue.
https://www.downlights.co.uk/fire-rated-cct-gimbal-led-downlight-ansell-prism-pro.html#description
I've fitted some of the Aico battery ones (EI650RF) recently as a bit of a trial at a premises belonging to my in-laws on a temporary basis until they renovate. Seem like decent alarms, very straightforward to fit and link. Having previously fitted hundreds (if not thousands) of Aico products in...
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