Thanks so much for all the responses guys!
It seems that what I'm planning is nothing unusual or regs-busting. I'll hook it all up and have a local spark check what I've adapted and test the reinstated circuits to cover all bases.
That's not really 'openly stating' if you have to ask - because of course, most people simply won't ask..
Which must happen all the time - if a new metre is to be fitted then obviously space must exist for it, and access to fit it.
Is this a reason not to use the space in the metre cupboard...
I would say definitely in breach.
On the other hand, some outdated rules are ignored en-masse for reasons of simplicity/practicality and eventually it's the rules themselves that are updated to accomodate a practice that was not anticipated when the rules were originally formed.
The suppliers...
The oven is 3.2kw, so slightly over 13a. Not fitted with a plug.
I understand that the 32a should be fine, as you say. Yet the manufacturers instruct that the circuit should be protected by 16a so my question is whether it's frowned upon to ignore that or if it's commonplace.
Yes I can imagine there 'could' be circumstances where they request removal.
But the chances of that seem remote, so remote that it's arguably far more sensible to take that small chance than it is to 'do it properly' which could be far more hassle than removing/re-positing the kit in the meter...
On another forum for general EV chat this question comes up all the time. It's very common to install a charger taking the supply direct from the meter box via a secondary box and suitable protection installed within the meter box.
Reasons to do this appear quite sensible:
1) Often far easier...
This is my question/concern really.. The circuit with existing protection and switch can obviously safely take the load of both ovens - but do regs state that the oven(s) must be individually supplied and protected as per MI? Or is it perfectly normal to just supply ovens with a 32a circuit...
Hi all,
I'm about to replace our kitchen and one of the upgrades is to install two full size ovens to replace the original twin over under counter unit.
The existing 45a cooker switch is in the right place but no convenient space for a second... Is there a reason I can't or should not connect...
I suppose failed insulation/component somewhere in the cooker could cause it to pull more current than it's internal wiring can handle, enough to cause a fire but not quite enough to trip the MCB. There must be a reason some manufacturers request lower amp than typical protection on the cooker...
True and I haven't even checked what protection they stipulate. No point until
It's hardly a concern for this instance though, given they'll be used for a single day with me present the entire time.
I assume he meant in my original example of using 2 x 16a plugs/sockets onto the existing cooker circuit which has 32a protection. In theory either oven could develop a fault and draw enough current to exceed what the plugs/sockets can handle but not enough to trip the 32a mcb..
A problem...
They do exist though, Although I appreciate they should not and why.
Like riggers that should never scale truss without at least one safety lanyard hooked on and people on scissor lifts without a hard hat..
No I meant plugging a 32a 1ph splitter cable into the distro which then splits down to 2 or more 16a sockets. I've just googled and I see that all such currently sold splitters have the MCB's mounted on the cable now, makes sense.
I still definitely see people using older splitters to go from...
Thanks both for the replies. Tbh as I was typing the bit about breaking into the existing FCU and adding the 16a sockets I was questioning why exactly I would bother when I could simply plug them in using standard 13a plugs... I know the plugs/sockets are over designed in terms of capacity and I...
Out of interest why would that be any different to putting a couple of 16a lights on a 32>2x16a 1ph splitter plugged into a distro at an event? (I checked your profile, I work events/TV/film too!)
I've seen that sort of thing done endless times. Surely so long as the device plugged into each...
Hi all,
Our kitchen is going to be ripped out and replaced in the new year, and currently has just one small oven in it - I have 10 guests for Christmas dinner and it ain't going to be up to the job!
However, I already have two new built in single ovens delivered but uninstalled and a carcass...
I was just making the point that a skim of plaster is more liable to crack over time, for whatever underlaying reason, compared to solid plaster.
Both can crack of course, but in my experience the 3mm skim is more liable to show hairline cracks than 15mm solid plaster.
I live in a 9 year old house on a typical modern housing estate. It's one of the larger houses but still just a 4 bed detached with detached double garage. It's just brick construction, not stone, nothing fancy. About 4 years ago we bought it for £365k. I think it originally sold for £230k but...
We're doing the same right now and wanted 35mm boxes, but as per your sums above, even a 25mm back box once dot/dabbed, the board and then skimmed becomes a 30mm deep box - which actually was more then sufficient for the switches and sockets we're using - so it became a none issue.
Are you sure...
I have drilled through a live before. Big bang and a moment of confusion - but yes, the circuit was de-energised instantly. I have since used a detector, they may be crap at accurately locating studs and pipes but they're very good at detecting a live cable.
On reflection, using boxes to define...
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