Hi guys,
We've got surplus stock of Integral LED Lamps, we've got a wide range listed below, can be purchased in either box quantity or singlar. Prices below are box quantity, which included FOC delivery to UK Mainland. Any questions please give me a call on 01394 593305.
To keep it consistent then you can do the 160w/m2 with a 10mm compound throughout so you won't have a height difference.
A 6mm Backerboard would be the best option, with a 2.5m2 mat giving you 92% coverage and a 9m2 mat giving you 90% coverage, please PM me and I can prepare a quote for you.
How big is the area?
We can do a 140w/m2 foiled heating for areas bigger then 4m2, which is called our FloorTec System, it would need a 6mm underlay, vapour barrier and a 9mm overboard which we supply.
If it's under 4m2 then a 160w/m2 on to a backerboard with a 10mm self levelling compound...
Built a few PC's and it Sounds like a short, when taking the PC apart inside did you take any static protection? Or is there a spacer under the mobo? Or the mobo has just shorted over time
Take a look at our 8 Way Wiring Centre, if the connections are the same or simular it could just be a straight forward swap.
8 Way Wiring Centre - http://www.uheat.co.uk/8-way-wiring-centre/
Totally agree with Lee, if you want to replace for a wireless system, Heatmiser is the way to go.
If you're looking for something slightly more expensive but two channel then I'd recommend the Heatmiser SlimlineRF Kit, simple to use is a tidy little unit.
Wireless Programmable Thermostat - Heatmiser PRT-W Kit - http://www.uheat.co.uk/wireless-programmable-thermostat-heatmiser-prt-w-kit/
From my experience with the UH4 there isn't a facility to use a Time Clock for the UFH with a UH4, the UH8s are the only ones which offer this feature and that's when using manual thermostats.
If you're using a standard Thermostat for the HW control then it's always been advised that a Three...
Glad to hear you ordered with ourselves, if you need any help then feel free to give us a call.
Can only praise the new heatmiser systems, very popular and offers a lot of options.
Looking at the manual it seems to be 3 different options when programming, either Switch In, Switch Out or Impuls, I reckon Switch In means turn on, Switch out means turn off and then Impuls means it will give short periods of heat for a short amount of time.
Normally the best way to use UFH is...
Hello John,
Sounds like a big project!
Firstly what floor finishes are they having? This will play a big part in either 140w/m2, 160w/m2 or 200w/m2. A primary heating source under tiles is usually 160w/m2 however with it being an old property a 200w/m2 mat would be more suitable with either a...
Completely agree with what Richard said, however remember to place the sensor directly inbetween two sections of cable, not 80-20 as it will give off a false reading.
From reading through it seems like you've got multiple mats for one area and they're totalling more then 16amps?
We normally say if the total watts in between 3000-3600w then a 20A DP Switch can be used but for anything over 3600 then a contactor would be needed to switch the load.
Running...
Unfortunately as Dan posted earlier you'd change the characteristics of cable and will cause problems in the long run.
Normally when we quote we tend to aim for 85-95% room coverage so it does leave you a little bit of leway for bathroom fittings and other objects.
One of our very regular customers does a fault finding service, he tends to use a Thermal Imaging camera and then pinpoint the break from the cold spot in the cable.
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