The diagram you posted for the non battery model has 4 pins, there are only 2 wires to the regulator and what looks like 2 wires to the outputs of which one is the horn. For what it costs, its got to be worth getting it , connecting the 2 wires to the regulator as per diagram and then measuring...
Just had a look and the proper Vespa rectifier is cheap enough and at least it is designed for the frequency range
https://euroscooterparts.co.uk/regulator-rectifier-4-pin-for-vespa-pk-50-px-80-pk-125-p-200-px-200-cosa-xl2.html
Phew, thats better. Let me look for a proper rectifier and suitable regulator to give a consistent DC voltage, you may have to play around with the resister to get a full scale reading when talk is full, or you may want to get an empty indication when the tank is very low, its often hard to get...
Turn the meter selector switch 2 clicks to the right where it shows 200 V, this will measure AC , depending on the meter it should give an accurate reading then connect to the lamp as you were doing it before and note the reading. As you have a DC gauge you need a better rectifier and a voltage...
I dont understand why it is so popular, i have even seen it used on a 350KVA generator for power.
Its horrible, whenever you touch the screen, which i would only earth one end anyway, its expensive for what it is and there are better cables for all the uses we come across. I think its toughness...
Was the scooter ever fitted with a battery ?
Also what are the readings when you put the meter on the AC range ?
Also what voltage lamps do you buy for this scooter, i.e. is it a 12V system or 6V system.
No it does not mean that. The second one is more efficient than the first one, according to EER. The 16A will refer to the size of supply. It looks like the spec sheets are a little confusing for the first one. It has a very wide voltage range so the current would vary also for an inverter...
Would be surprised if pumping down to release the high and low pressure lines is not covered by Fgas regs.
You would need to be competent at pumping down, you would need gauges to make sure you had reached vacuum in the low and high pressure side and you would need to confirm the receiver has...
I have mild arthritis in my right knee, lower back and hands. It all kicked off during Covid when i was working flat out, as holidays were too risky and my clients were still active. Shortly after an intense project i was forced to take 2 weeks off as my knee was so swollen i could not get in...
I think there is an element of the client not wanting to admit to touching the electrics to an electrician for fear of unknown consequences. I regularly get called out , commercially, and when i ask for "the story" i am often met with " i know nooothing"... lol
However, one of the funny ones...
You will have to install the sensor and connect the green wire. This gauge is also for Negative earth vehicle so also check your negative battery terminal does in fact connect to the chassis / engine.
Suggest test it off the vehicle with the correct sensor.
As a minimum you will need 12V+ve on...
It looks like the Anti-Gravity battery is similar to mine, although smaller. Mine also has some in-built protection which made it MSA approved for Motorsport. The link is very specific about using a modern alternator with regulator/rectifier as you have mentioned. Its the voltage regulator that...
Not fully understanding your terminology used but will give you some principles. Simple vehicle battery chargers using either a dynamo or alternator or magneto will generate a voltage , say for a 12V system, this will produce a voltage of between 12 and 14 V depending on the speed of the engine...
Dont want to appear pedantic, but Fgas regs (which are statutory) dont allow using Fgases to push air, residual N2 and moisture out of the system. OK R290 is basically propane, but it is a small charge so using some of it to purge does appear a bit odd. Anyway this is getting like a DIY thread...
Its a real problem, brazing is always preferred but i had an instance when i was doing a "cabin in the woods" - one outdoor unit and 3 indoor units, so lots of branching. I brazed most joints away from the job, under cover, no problem, but the last joint meant i had to braze outside, in the...
The last line is the issue when you are flaring your own pipes. Most simple units have enough pre-charged gas for a modest run of pipework suitable for Domestic so no need to add additional gas. This is how i do it.
1. Flare pipe-ends using a specific orbital flaring tool using lots of hydraulic...
The gas used is R290 which is basically propane, its a great gas for A/C systems in terms of efficiency so no issues there, its main stumbling block (not really an issues for you) is it does not scale well as you need gas detection and ventilation systems to manage the build up of propane should...
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