"It is tidy work, its just a violation and who knows what else they did that we haven’t seen."
Yes, that's my bigger fear. Who knows what evil lurks in the dark corners?
I found one more photo of that area, zoomed in (below). It gives a bit more detail on the number of wires going into the bottom and the stuffing.
This box is behind the refrigerator in the kitchen. I think that the smaller box (shown above but not shown below) is power for the refridgerator...
Great advice, detailed and helpful. Thank you.
Yes, I've read 316.16(A) and 314.26(B), and that's why I was concerned. But I'm just a tinkerer and this work was done by a professional electrician, so I wanted a real opinion before raising my concerns. But they will be drywalling soon and...
If you want to power all 12 at once, you might as well put them all in series and drive them from a current-limited power supply. 5 watts at 3.5V is 1.4 amps, so you will be running the total string at somewhere around 1.4 amps for full brightness, less current for less brightness.
3.5V * 12...
I am a homeowner-to-be. This is in USA, and must follow NEC 2017 (this state has not yet adopted 2020). The builder has done rough electrical and it concerns me, but I am not an electrician, so can't make a definitive call.
In the attached photo, the left box appears to be a 32 cu in box (is...
I'm not certain, but it appears to be a ground fault breaker. If I'm right, it is a special safety breaker that trips when there is overcurrent or when there is leakage to ground. I've seen situations where ground fault breakers will trip after someone cleans the area with a spray cleaner and...
Common USB ports are 5V/0.5A (2.5 watts) each. I assume that's enough for your needs. You can buy 12V to 5V USB adapters from many places, including ebay, amazon, etc. The hardest part will be installing the ports and making them look good.
For each port you install, you'll need 2.5 watts...
You need a tester, preferrably a volt meter that is also a continuity tester. Turn off the breaker (safety first!) Remove all wirenuts and separate all wires. Draw a sketch of the wiring and use the continuity tester to figure out which wire connects to which. Then it will be easy to reconnect...
Yes, if more than 4 years old, those are compact fluorescent lamps with an external ballast.
There are replacement lamps with the same base that are LED and require that you bypass the ballast (rewire the lamp). If I had a bad lamp or a bad ballast, I would replace it with an LED. You can...
Sure sounds like a bad connection. First step is turn off the breaker, open the box containing the dead outlet, and visually look at the wiring. If everything looks good, do the same inspection of each box on the same breaker (WITH BREAKER OFF), because the power to that box is probably...
My suspicion is a bad connection in the wiring.
I've had problems with the connectors on the ends of strip lights. My symptoms were similar to yours. Soldering is reliable, but the clamp-on connectors can be flaky, even from good brands.
Some PV systems use microinverters, one per panel. If you have one of these systems, then shading one panel will not affect power produced by another panel.
Some system simply put all panels in series and feed a large inverter. If one panel gets shaded, all panels lose output.
Some systems...
I'm looking at installing an imported IP65 LED floodlight with CE rating on the back of my house. I guess that IP65 + CE makes them relatively safe. This one has a cable gland and 0.5 meter vinyl jacket cable coming out of the back. Here's a photo of the back of this light, from the dealer's...
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