Dom, just take it easy and be methodical in your testing and write everything down. I’m the same as you, only been qualified for 14 months, so whenever I go to a job that sounds difficult, I write done everything I do as I go along, so if things go wrong like you’ve just found out, it’s easier...
Andy, if your current oven & hob is wired via this junction box, then get an electrician in to sort it out. Shouldn’t take no more than hour plus parts to sort out, for your peace of mind, it’s a small price to pay.
The shower we had in our old flat was lower than usual, as the manufacturers instructions said that both hot/cold feeds had to be lower than than our cold water tank in the airing cupboard for proper water flow and to comply with their guarantee.
Before you install ANY circuit to an existing installation, you would check for bonding etc during your initial visit, before you quote for the job or if you quote without doing an initial verification (very unwise), you would check for bonding before you even think about installing the first...
What were you IR readings before and after Bob the builder fitted the kitchen?
If you can trace where the cpc is broken, you may be able to prove without any doubt who damaged the cpc, then you can point this out to the home owner and say you can’t sign it off until it’s repaired.
I did suggest re-routing the swa to the inside wall, then glanded in to the shed db, luckily there’s enough slack in the swa to still reach the db from inside, then i’ll fill the hole in shed wall.
It was only done last summer by an electrician friend of a friend.
Yes, the black core has been used as the earth, the house’s supply is TN-S and the SWA run is roughly 30m in total. One light circuit and 2 socket radials in the shed.
Is it ok to go directly in through the back of the db, directly from outside? There’s been no mastic used to fill the rear...
So one end is ok then?
I was thinking of adding the brass gland to the supply end, then run an earth fly lead to the cu early bar, is this ok?
Plus, is ok to use the back entry for swa cable, or should it always be glanced at both ends?
A friend at work asked me to take a look at the electrics in his shed, RCD would occasionally trip out, turned out to be a very loose neutral going in to the RCD.
One thing I did notice though was that the 10MM2 SWA entered through the back entry point of both the shed & house CU and neither...
New measuring equipment or similar should come with a ‘certificate of conformity’ from the manufacturer, which is in affect a ‘calibration certificate’, which means it was calibrated during manufacture.
If it’s a “like for like” swap, then there’s no need to install an RCD, but you could just mention it to the customer and explain it would increase the safety of the circuit inline with the current regs.
You a ask sky for a “hybrid” LNB which allows sky Q and a standard sky box to work at the same time. One of my work colleagues requested this, a bit more expensive.
The sky Q F connector doesn’t fit on to my standard sky box, I found one the sky engineer dropped during my install, last year.
I’m not sure, but when we had sky Q installed in feb 2018, the engineer had to change the LNB and put different connectors on the box side of the twin cable, apparently the new LNB helps the box record the 3/6 channels and watch the 4/7 channel at the same time.
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