I doubt it as from your description I would be surprised if it's down to L a/o C coupling, I think you'll find it's mis-wired or there's some other fault. If the current is substantial that would help confirm this. What happens when you completely disconnect the switch?
OK I'm prepared for the usual onslaught so here goes...
I recently bought a clamp meter Uni-T UT210E.
The first thing I did was check it out against my trusted AVOs and also a couple of other cheapo DMM's, (measure current through wire through probes and compare to clamp reading). The clamp is...
Because I stumbled across a reference to it on another related website while I was looking for info on RCBOs with switched neutral (due to another post on this site) and wondered if anyone knew any more about it.
It's probably all exaggerated, I can feel a compo claim coming on..however I would like to know what really caused it. I'm sure I won't be reading the reason in the Mail.
I did think of that, linking to it is probably ok, but reproducing it on a public forum, I'm not sure?
Headline reads:
"Thirteen children suffer electric shocks and teacher is 'blown through the air' after metal playground fence and door handles are electrified during their lunch break"
Copy...
G4 lamps are readily available 12V or 220V (or perhaps even 240V if you're feeling lucky). That said I can't say I've ever seen a fitting that uses mains rated G4's they all seem to use G9's.
TBH I'm not sure if you HAVE to declare it, the point is if you rely on it and do declare it I believe the insurance company can insist on the footage as part of their conditions. I wasn't suggesting foul play!
If you're declaring the camera to your insurance company or relying on it in the event of an incident you may well be on sticky ground if you switch it off selectively.
https://www.osram.com/appsinfo/pdc/pdf.do?cid=GPS01_1121623&mpid=ZMP_1089786&vid=PP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat&lid=EN
programmable so maybe an overkill?
or
APC-35-350 | Mean Well APC-35-350, Constant Current LED Driver 35W 28 → 100V 350mA | Mean Well - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7717774/
I'm confused, is the OP saying that the immersion and towel rail both work when the night switch is off but MCB trips when night switch is on? So does she then have 2 separate circuits for the immersion, one for day and one for night but the day setting is working OK, and there's only one MCB...
So here we have a rewire to a garage, by someone who apparently has no idea of what type of earthing system he has, or whether it it’s compliant or even adequate or what bonding is required, can’t or won’t check or calculate resistances or probably doesn’t know why he even should do, or what...
I'm a fan of zoning, one lot around the outside (maybe 6) with some spill on the walls, second lot (maybe 4) in the central part of the room, that way you can adjust for mood. Dimmers essential, but you can always fit a second lot later when you discover that the 'cheap' dimmers you've bought...
So next time you're up in the loft and the smart light goes out, you can stumble your way back in the dark falling through the ceiling on your way.(assuming you don't panic and freeze...). Fit a switch.
Agreed, that’s why I think the radio controlled plug-in sockets is a good solution and it’s flexible, you can move the sockets around as things change.
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