The analytical team I managed until I retired from the Scottish Fire and Rescue Service were (and are) responsible amongst other things for publishing comparable fire statistics for Scotland.
The stats you kindly quoted are derived from data completed by all fire and rescue services in England...
Attempting to replace a 240V power controller on a safety-critical item such as an electric underblanket without knowing how the original controller was built is not something I would recommend. Before I retired I was a stats person for the second-largest fire service in Britain. Although it is...
I have been experiencing similar issues with my devolo network adapters, which until recently had been working perfectly. I find that several times a night on occasions I am losing internet access - and the only solution is to unplug the adapter then plug it back in.
I strongly suspect that the...
Whilst the the connections at the rear right of the oven are not accessible as long as the oven is housed in your kitchen units, anyone who removes the oven in the future would be at risk of contacting exposed live parts. For all the time it takes to do, it would be much better just to remove...
It's fine as it is. According to a web search, each of your 19-LED clusters is rated at about 1.4W. The driver you have is rated at 5W, so the load is well within its rating. It's the correct voltage driver for the cluster, so there is no danger of overdriving the LEDs.
Makes me wonder again...
Yes, though it may be best to do so one at a time just in case one or other is indeed faulty. Make sure you get the polarity correct - that is, that you wire each of them to the output the same way as the one that works at present (plus to plus and minus to minus).
-Stewart
@DefyG and @Lucien Nunes both pointed out the use of the electronic Halogen transformer in place of a proper LED driver, and @Wilko, DefyG and Lucien have all mentioned the possibility of damage to the LEDs.
The original installer has perhaps used what was to hand at the time, but it was a very...
Hi Shaun. The cables you linked look well made, though expensive! I have no issues at all with those cables vs those supplied by the OEM. If you remove the connectors on any of these cables yourself and fit your own you take responsibility for any subsequent failure (i.e. you invalidate the...
Hi Shawn. I guess you want to show off the innards of your computer as best as possible, hence the PET braided sleeving. I would advise that you do the minimum of cutting and reconnecting, as home-modification will potentially degrade the reliability of (normally excellent) commercially-produced...
The headphone cable you show is (in my opinion) very difficult to make suitable connections using DIY soldering techniques. The cable comprises bunches of very fine-stranded wires, each strand covered with an insulating lacquer. Because the strands are all insulated by the lacquer there is no...
The requirements to meet the new Scottish legislation (implementation delayed to Feb 2022 due to COVID-19) are listed on the Scottish Government website at https://www.gov.scot/publications/fire-and-smoke-alarms-in-scottish-homes/:
Although smoke alarms in bedrooms are not required under the...
The switch appears to be miswired. You have a black neutral cable on the right wired to a connection which is marked L for live. Also, way too much copper showing on the leftmost red (Live) cable, and some damaged insulation on the leftmost neutral (which may be to the wrong terminal anyway). I...
Oh dear. If this is indeed a freestanding cooker, someone's taken what should have been a simple install (via the connector plate at the rear of the cooker) and made it hugely complicated by taking the hob off the cooker and accidentally parting the internal connections from the thermostats etc...
Hope you can get the rats caught and eliminated. They can cause severe damage to your wiring, and I'm sure your electrician will be able to replace whatever they've chewed after they've been caught. Thanks for the update!
Thanks for the correction @telectrix - I was concerned that if the FCU (if fitted) was single-pole (unlikely now as you've said) then for instance accidentally touching the CPC to the neutral will trigger whatever RCB is protecting the ring and other circuits off straight away should the OP take...
There's no magic device that can trace the cabling involved for you. A professional electrician might be able to determine the most likely route that has been taken, but that might still be difficult as it all depends who fitted the external light and how competent they were. And as you've...
It's impossible to say for sure without knowing how your lighting circuit runs from your consumer unit to the lights concerned, and indeed what potential defects (if any) in the building or its drainage environment might account for water penetration into cable runs, fittings or back boxes...
Regardless of fuses not blowing/mcb's not tripping, this has to be investigated by an electrician. As the failure followed on from heavy rain there may well be water penetration that you can't see which has the potential to cause serious damage to your electrical system, and at worst the...
The chunky output driver transistors shown in the OP's post would suggest a max output driver current of perhaps around 200-300 mA for each group - there's no heat sinks attached to the power transistors, so it's not likely to be above that (as otherwise the output transistors would overheat...
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