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I know you're only supposed to put one dimmer switch on a 2 way lighting setup but what would happen if you put 2 on, one at each switch position?
A client wanted an led dimmer each end of the dining room. It's going to use 10 led candle bulbs 4W each on two chandeliers .. I advised him not to but I didn't have an answer as to what the result would be.. hes already bought the led dimmers from Band Q. I think they're BG Nexus.
 
Hmm... interesting! Apart from just looking at the dimmer switch and ensuring it is actually 2 way switching currently, I haven't actually spent any time on it as I'm doing lots of other things in the house too.
It was the same with the 6 bathroom downlights though.. they bought nice shiny new ones but not shower rated. I suppose 5 may be ok but there's one almost over the electric shower cubicle. Now strictly speaking it's outside the zones height wise but still should be ipx4?
 
I know we've diverged from the original thread but how near to a shower MUST a minimum ip44 luminaire be used? Or is it down to the manufacturers instructions?
It's above 2.25M from floor and shower tray so clear of zone 1.. nothing in the fitting instructions about this at all. it is class2, not that that has any relevence I'm thinking..
 
What’s up, doing a job same story client bought materials for switching , two, two way 1 gang switches In the hall at either end and one intermediate switch in the middle. They want all 3 changed to dimmable switches. Can I change both switches either side of the hall and leave the intermediate as a regular switch in the middle ?
Did you not read the thread that you hijacked? The answer in 2018 was no, and it is still no using the (probably) standard dimmers that your client has bought (don't you hate it when they do that!).

I'll not repeat the thread above. But, in short, you need specific master slave dimmers. Like the Varilight multi-point dimmers Varilight Multi-Point Slave Dimmer Switch - https://www.downlightsdirect.co.uk/varilight-eclique-slave.html#attachments
Lightwave have similar products.

There is a way of doing this by using "smart" dimmer switches, but needs some setting up and may depend on the existing wiring. Here's how to do it...
 
My approach exactly, where clients supply kit it will cost me more time compared to parts I know so charge accordingly. Recently five, 10 packs of Screw fix down lights. What the client "saved" buying poor quality, he spent double in the time it took to fit and zip-tie every terminal closed.

Edit. Apologies - the original quote was about customers buying their materials so this appears out of context.
 
Bathrooms and ensuites ..... IP rated fittings, irrespective of height of ceiling and location .....

Regardless of zones the light fitting should be suitable for the location it will be installed. I'm sure most of us have seen light fittings rusted and rotted away in a Bathroom, despite them being out of any zones.
Since we're replying to 5 year old posts......
There's nothing in IP ratings that implies corrosion resistance. In a lot of cases, stuff with an IP rating implying water resistance will be made from corrosion resistant material, with the common exception of screws, but there's no guarantee.
I know of a row of IP rated downlights mounted under an open porch that are still water resistant, but are now far from pretty.
 

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