2 Gang 2 Way 2 plate Feed to the Switch Wiring

[tvrulesme]

I have pieced together a diagram for controlling 2 separate lights from 2 switches with neutral at the switch (home automation requirement) and was wondering if someone could please verify this would be correct as I couldn't find any diagram which matched exactly the requirements?

Earth omitted for simplicity



I was thinking of using 7 core 1.5mm YY control cable from switch 1 to switch 2 clipped direct. Any reason this would not be allowed?

Last question is could I join L1 to the other L1 at switch 2 to free up one of the cores to bring neutral across?

 

[tvrulesme]

So with neutral brought across would look like this.

 

[tvrulesme]

OK looks like I have an answer to the question of using YY control cable so back to pairs of 3 core and earth

BS7671 discourages it's use

511.2 Where equipment to be used is not covered by a British or Harmonized Standard or is used outside the scope of its standard, the designer or other person responsible for specifying the installation shall confirm that the equipment provides at least the same degree of safety as that afforded by compliance with the Regulations. Such use shall be noted and appended to the appropriate documentation specified in Part 6.

 

[brianmoooore]

Is there any reason why power in can't be to the lower switches? This would reduce the number of interconnecting cores between the two switches to 5 + earth (unless a perm. live is needed at the upper switches) and would better balance the number of cables going into each switch box.

 

[Aaron b]

So with neutral brought across would look like this.

View attachment 96225

The circuit looks alright. 3 core t&e is the way to go. You need to consider the amount of space you need for the smart switch, that's going to be busy.

What smart switch or module are you using? Depending on the smart switch there might be an easier way.

 

[tvrulesme]

Is there any reason why power in can't be to the lower switches? This would reduce the number of interconnecting cores between the two switches to 5 + earth (unless a perm. live is needed at the upper switches) and would better balance the number of cables going into each switch box.

Nice I didn't think of that. Yes that is possible. So something like this?


I make that 4 + earth unless I am missing something?

 

[tvrulesme]

The circuit looks alright. 3 core t&e is the way to go. You need to consider the amount of space you need for the smart switch, that's going to be busy.

What smart switch or module are you using? Depending on the smart switch there might be an easier way.

Thanks a lot. So most likely I'll be using Shelly 2.5 as I've been using then for years and they are very small.

Shelly 2.5

 

[Aaron b]

Why not place the module above the ceiling in a adaptable box, that way you will have plenty of space.

You should only need the neutral at the switch with the module in. You don't need mains voltage to the switches.

 

[brianmoooore]

Nice I didn't think of that. Yes that is possible. So something like this?

View attachment 96273
I make that 4 + earth unless I am missing something?

No, I meant feed power to the bottom switches only, and use a different configuration of 2 way switching - power in to common, strappers to L1 and L2, and light feed from the top switch common.

 

[tvrulesme]

Why not place the module above the ceiling in a adaptable box, that way you will have plenty of space.

You should only need the neutral at the switch with the module in. You don't need mains voltage to the switches.

Agreed, very much leaning towards Quinetic wifi receiver at the moment which would mean no wiring to the socket

 

[Aaron b]

Agreed, very much leaning towards Quinetic wifi receiver at the moment which would mean no wiring to the socket

There no issue with the Shelly just stick it in a wago box. If you do it all in standard cables it can always be converted back.