Each of your new lamps takes about 2 watts, so with 2 lamps you would need a 24 volt LED driver with at least 5 watts power. Anything above that will do, say 10 watts, but the higher the power rating the more expensive they tend to be. See what you can find!
(5 watts at 24 volts is about 0.2 amps, ie 200mA, so any 24V power supply giving at least 0.2A should work!)
Well, I am totally confused now. I am not sure how I can wire these in series, as they are already pre-wired in each housing. I wanted to just check and make sure they would still not work properly in series before buying different drivers. I don’t seem to know how I can do this with these lamps the way they are already wired. Maybe I am missing something?? I even watched a few YouTube videos and they don’t help. Please see the pics for reference.
meanwhile, I will look for drivers mentioned.
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These are 24v lamps. If you wire them in series they should need 48v to work. Your power supply doesn't go up to 48v. However if you still want to try it, you can wire them like this (sorry for scruffy sketch)
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I tried wiring series and no luck. I have contacted the seller several times and they
Just to be sure, I wired them this way and one lighthead was on a little dim and the other flashed dim. So, after talking to the engineer for the fifth time at the place I got this second set of lights from, they told me I should get the attached drivers to run them.
I’m assuming (at this point) I should keep them wired in series and all should be good??
these drivers are 60 watts, which seems a bit high.. does this matter?
if someone has a better idea, I am open to whatever at this point. Ie. One LED light head bright enough to produce 850 or higher Lumens at 6500 k or even a little higher would be fine. And a driver to run it in the housing outside off of the 110. Thank you for all the help and input.
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I am baffled as to why Arrow are suggesting a 48V supply for 24v lamps that are designed to be connected in parallel and run from a 24V constant voltage supply.
Those lamps you have are designed for side lighting of signs, and have a narrow beam angle of 18 degrees, and give out about 200 lumens each. I guess you have seen the info, eg https://www.jkllamps.com/pdfs/JKL-AS-ZM-EDGELIGHT-LED.pdf
and Edge Light LED Sign Module - https://www.jkllamps.com/ZM-6223-CW
Are you sure that narrow beam is what you want?
One confusing thing is that both the drawings and instructions talk about connecting the lamps 'in series', but that seems to be referring to how they can be placed at intervals on the cable in a string down the side of a sign. There are tables giving the number of bulbs you have on a strand (but they say 'series') against the power supply wattage needed. In all cases they specify a 24V power supply to power the lead that passes through each bulb (which appears to connect them all in parallel).
I suspect people unfamiliar with the detail of this product are mis-interpreting the use of the word 'series' in the documentation. Still don't understand why they are saying 48V supply. At least they got constant voltage right. I don't suggest you buy a 48V supply.
So a question for you - given these two bulbs you have give out an 18 degree narrow beam, and only give out 212 lumens each, (which is nowhere near the 850 you mention above) are they actually what you want? Also given you have tried them on your old supply (that goes up to 32 V), we don't know if they are both still working properly.
So I am beginning to think it might be better to find an alternative lamp, that will run from the constant current driver you have, or buy a complete new lamp and driver combo that are certain to work together.
I have no idea what is available in your part of the world, but will try to have a quick look. I may be a while!!
PS In my opinion, there is no reason why you should be wiring the lamps you have in series, they should be in parallel as they were originally supplied to you on the one piece of cable, and they should work from 24V in parallel. I cannot be any clearer. For those white lamps, forget 'series', forget '48V'. Probably need to get something else anyway. You need to find a supplier who will understand what you need and provide it, not sell you something inappropriate.
Those lamps you have are designed for side lighting of signs, and have a narrow beam angle of 18 degrees, and give out about 200 lumens each. I guess you have seen the info, eg https://www.jkllamps.com/pdfs/JKL-AS-ZM-EDGELIGHT-LED.pdf
and Edge Light LED Sign Module - https://www.jkllamps.com/ZM-6223-CW
Are you sure that narrow beam is what you want?
One confusing thing is that both the drawings and instructions talk about connecting the lamps 'in series', but that seems to be referring to how they can be placed at intervals on the cable in a string down the side of a sign. There are tables giving the number of bulbs you have on a strand (but they say 'series') against the power supply wattage needed. In all cases they specify a 24V power supply to power the lead that passes through each bulb (which appears to connect them all in parallel).
I suspect people unfamiliar with the detail of this product are mis-interpreting the use of the word 'series' in the documentation. Still don't understand why they are saying 48V supply. At least they got constant voltage right. I don't suggest you buy a 48V supply.
So a question for you - given these two bulbs you have give out an 18 degree narrow beam, and only give out 212 lumens each, (which is nowhere near the 850 you mention above) are they actually what you want? Also given you have tried them on your old supply (that goes up to 32 V), we don't know if they are both still working properly.
So I am beginning to think it might be better to find an alternative lamp, that will run from the constant current driver you have, or buy a complete new lamp and driver combo that are certain to work together.
I have no idea what is available in your part of the world, but will try to have a quick look. I may be a while!!
PS In my opinion, there is no reason why you should be wiring the lamps you have in series, they should be in parallel as they were originally supplied to you on the one piece of cable, and they should work from 24V in parallel. I cannot be any clearer. For those white lamps, forget 'series', forget '48V'. Probably need to get something else anyway. You need to find a supplier who will understand what you need and provide it, not sell you something inappropriate.
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Would this sort of thing be suitable for you? 900lm + Need to find something equivalent nearer you I guess!
LED 12 Watt Round Dimmable UltraSlim 10mm Recessed Panel Light
Luxury and A+ Energy Efficient I LumoS LED 12 Watt Round Dimmable UltraSlim 10mm Recessed Panel Light available in Pure and Warm White Colours
hartingtonheath.com
Or this:Would this sort of thing be suitable for you? 900lm + Need to find something equivalent nearer you I guess!
LED 12 Watt Round Dimmable UltraSlim 10mm Recessed Panel Light
Luxury and A+ Energy Efficient I LumoS LED 12 Watt Round Dimmable UltraSlim 10mm Recessed Panel Light available in Pure and Warm White Colourshartingtonheath.com
Sugo Dimmable Round LED Panel Light Ultra-Thin Slim 6000K-6500K Cool White Recessed Ceiling Lights Home Office Commercial Lighting Panel (9W) - - Amazon.com
Sugo Dimmable Round LED Panel Light Ultra-Thin Slim 6000K-6500K Cool White Recessed Ceiling Lights Home Office Commercial Lighting Panel (9W) - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
they replied this morning with three 24 volt driver options. And, I would like the lumens higher. These are going in housings outside, on each side of the garage. Not sure if the recessed are okay to mount outside.
Hope that makes sense.
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OK that's all useful info. I didn't know the application. Forget my suggestions!
Perhaps there's a lamp, like your white one's, that is brighter and suitable for outside that will work with your existing driver.
So what happened to the LED lamps that were in those luminaires originally?
Three out of five of the diodes were out abt the others flashed. The other one worked fine. But we decided to clean them both up, paint them and change the color/temp kelvin. I gave Arrow all the info on the driver and they sent me the “spark fun” LEDs first (didn’t work) so I returned them. Then they sent these. It’s surprising how difficult this has been to accomplish. But I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to this particular task. I can wire everything up around my Jeep and even inside the house, but this has been challenging.
Try looking for a COB (chip on board) LED.
This one should work with your existing drivers (assuming they're OK), but from UK Amazon unfortunately.
Maybe you can find a source?
You'd have to work out how to mount them.
actually I've just noted a load of anomalies in that Amazon listing. The data says 12V but the headline description says 30V. If you can find an LED like the headline description (the URL) locally available, that should be fine.
this seems to be easily available in Europe, can you find one?
Epistar COB LED 9 watt 28V-30 Volt 900-950 Lumens 6000K-6500K
This one should work with your existing drivers (assuming they're OK), but from UK Amazon unfortunately.
Maybe you can find a source?
You'd have to work out how to mount them.
actually I've just noted a load of anomalies in that Amazon listing. The data says 12V but the headline description says 30V. If you can find an LED like the headline description (the URL) locally available, that should be fine.
this seems to be easily available in Europe, can you find one?
Epistar COB LED 9 watt 28V-30 Volt 900-950 Lumens 6000K-6500K
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I will check. Looks like they would need soldered. I saw that 12 volt as well. If all I would have to do is solder a positive wire to one side and negative to the other, I can do that. And figure out a way to mount it on a piece of plastic to secure inside the housing.
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That 12V wording in the body of the Amazon listing is a mistake - they have wrong information there.
The Epistar description I put in my previous post is correct, so see if you can find them.
You are spot on about the mounting. Must get the +ve and -ve round the right way!
also I suspect the back of the unit might need a heat sink, and the metal wings will get hot (9 watts) so think about heat dissipation and if plastic could melt?
good luck!
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