25mm galv conduit deta brand from tlc keeps bending with a flat back and wrinkles ?

[Ryan Le Sueur]

Iv used this bender for allot of 20mm galv jobs and its worked fine. Im currently doing a job that involves 25mm galv conduit so iv changed the former and steppes up the roller and arm into the appropriate holes. Every bend i do the conduit keeps showing small wrinkles at the start of the bend and a flatness where it bends round the former. Can anyone help out ?

 

[davesparks]

Did you need to move the roller? On my bender I never move the roller when changing between 20 and 25

 

[Midwest]

Might be the former or might just be the conduit. Some experimenting with swoppies from other benders & conduit.

 

[PEG]

Hi, a piece of another brand of 25mm would be a good purchase,and see if the problem replicates. Any talk of a bad batch of tubing (which is not unheard of) will have to be delivered in conjunction with a correct form,done with the same machine.

 

[sam400]

Deta conduit is dreadful! There quality control must be non existent. We were having a nightmare installing some tube recently couldn’t get a thread on it for love or money when I measured it was at least 21mm
Had about 10 lengths like it.

 

[Tes369]

Hello

A more constructive post here brace yourselves. The conduit brand you are using is rubbish this is quite a common thing to happen. Probably down to the thickness of the metal and quality of the steel involved.

A tip to those who have done very little galv conduit and trainees.

*Mark where your first saddle will go on the conduit. When it is in the jaws of the bender that's where your bender jaws should sit when threading. So that when you put your saddle on the conduit it covers the marks left by the bender jaws.

*The writing on the conduit should always be hidden at the back against the wall when installing conduit.

* I like to measure from the back of the bend and I never mark the conduit bender.

* If you wish to make a box spanner for getting inside Unistrut. Ask Mr Air Plumber to get his torch on a piece of 20mm galv conduit until it's nice and red then hammer onto a 10mm bolt head.

* Sharpie gets rid of Sharpie marks on any metal work especially galv conduit. scribble over the mark while it's still wet rub off with tissue the mark is gone.

Cheers

 

[Ryan Le Sueur]

Did you need to move the roller? On my bender I never move the roller when changing between 20 and 25

I think i had to as the 25mm former sat allot taller so i had to raise it 1 hole.

 

[Ryan Le Sueur]

Ok thanks everyone. I needed a little confirmation that it could be poor tube or my former. Im going to try a completely different bender order some new conduit from neweys. Hopefully i can tell u all that it was the tube !
Thanks again

 

[PEG]

...I also hope you are plugging and packing with wet sand...

 

[Ryan Le Sueur]

...I also hope you are plugging and packing with wet sand...

Is it essential to do that with 25mm conduit. Iv never heard of doing this at all ?

 

[SparkyChick]

Is it essential to do that with 25mm conduit. Iv never heard of doing this at all ?

I'd say based on this... @PEG is yanking your chain

 

[SparkyChick]

Hello

A more constructive post here brace yourselves. The conduit brand you are using is rubbish this is quite a common thing to happen. Probably down to the thickness of the metal and quality of the steel involved.

A tip to those who have done very little galv conduit and trainees.

*Mark where your first saddle will go on the conduit. When it is in the jaws of the bender that's where your bender jaws should sit when threading. So that when you put your saddle on the conduit it covers the marks left by the bender jaws.

*The writing on the conduit should always be hidden at the back against the wall when installing conduit.

* I like to measure from the back of the bend and I never mark the conduit bender.

* If you wish to make a box spanner for getting inside Unistrut. Ask Mr Air Plumber to get his torch on a piece of 20mm galv conduit until it's nice and red then hammer onto a 10mm bolt head.

* Sharpie gets rid of Sharpie marks on any metal work especially galv conduit. scribble over the mark while it's still wet rub off with tissue the mark is gone.

Cheers

Some great tips in there, thanks for taking the time to share

Much appreciated.

 

[PEG]

Yep,guilty of poking an engineering fun stick...but it is a well known and accepted method of achieving a uniform bend. It resists collapse and is,to a degree,"self adjusting".

Understanding the principles that are at work,whilst a bend is forming,can greatly assist in achieving good results,and can also enable trouble shooting failures.

You are stretching and compressing a metal. It is not happy being stretched,but it really resists being compressed. You are attempting a compromise,between the two,whilst maintaining it's original shape.

Easy...

 

[ruston]

Yep,guilty of poking an engineering fun stick...but it is a well known and accepted method of achieving a uniform bend. It resists collapse and is,to a degree,"self adjusting".

Understanding the principles that are at work,whilst a bend is forming,can greatly assist in achieving good results,and can also enable trouble shooting failures.

You are stretching and compressing a metal. It is not happy being stretched,but it really resists being compressed. You are attempting a compromise,between the two,whilst maintaining it's original shape.

Easy...

Also an old trick for cutting Earthenware glazed pipes pre Sthil saw days.

 

[PEG]

Like it...an old fella showed me how to mark any pipe up for an angled branch cut,by transferring the angle to the perpendicular,dipping it in dirty water....just follow the dirty edge (also wise life advice)