I cannot recall anything in the regs to suggest other wise . Although I am always a little dubious about running the neutral in a connector inside the switch box . I wonder if perhaps a manufacturer could create a 5amp plate switch with a neutral link specifically for the the purpose of wiring behind a switch?

Not haveing a go but why not a connector block in a switch box? I would normally 3-plate at a ceiling rose but if you are running away to say some wall lights, they are buggers for no space. Makes sense to keep connections to a minimum. Or are you suggesting through crimps.
 
I use a connector block if there are more than 2 to connect, otherwise its a through crimp.

:)
 
Saveloy...
Just working through your method as mostly I have done loop at lights & is a PAIN!...
From the Wago or type of connector I would take a T&E, to Common, CPC and L1 and at light fitting just have a switch live...

PLUS a Neutral linking in the lights...OOOPPSSS...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Saveloy...
Just working through your method as mostly I have done loop at lights & is a PAIN!...
From the Wago or type of connector I would take a T&E, to Common, CPC and L1 and at light fitting just have a switch live...

PLUS a Neutral linking in the lights...OOOPPSSS...

Just to clarify if my description was a bit unclear.

I take permanent supply in (L N E) to switch backbox, into Wago's.

From Wagos -
1 live single live conductor to COM on switch
T&E (L N E) to next light switch ( Live supply) if required.
CPC to backbox and plate.

Then 1 T&E (to luminaire or downlights) Switched live from L1. Neutral and CPC from Wagos
 
Thanks Mate
I had it, but just another way...using a Single N instead...
Cheers for clarifying
Much appreciated
 
No worries Claret. Glad to help. I do it all the time as most people don't want normal pendants anymore. As others have said, it saves farting about at the top of steps trying to terminate 3 cables above your head.:)
 
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3 plate method
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