3kw appliance moulded plug top

[Daz2007]

Hi we have a client who insists on using 3kw induction hobs on their projects. These hobs are used 8-10hours per day and come with a moulded plug top. Safe to say the socket outlets keep melting/burning out. First thought was to remove the plug top and wire via a 16amp commando and appropriate 16amp rcbo (These sockets are wired on their own dedicated radial one radial per socket.) However removing the plug top would invalidate the warranty. The appliance is wired with a 1.5mm rubber flex. Not sure what else we can do with this other than tell the client to buy induction hobs that comes with a 16amp commando in the first instant. What's your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance.

 

[ImpededLoop]

Do the manufacturers instructions state that removing the plug top invalidates the warranty?

They may also state "not for commercial use".

 

[snowhead]

I'm sure that the fact the manufacturers fitting a plug not suitable for the appliance rating / use is more of an issue than cutting the plug off.
However as above, I doubt the hobs are commercially rated or rated for continous use.

I used to do commercial work including Kitchens etc.
Anything over 2kw would sooner rather than later melt the plug /socket.
Part of the problem is the plug being removed before the appliance is cleaned and getting contaminaed with grease or cleaning product.

And 16amp plugs / sockets will melt as well, you need to go bigger.

 

[Daz2007]

I've had a look and can't see anywhere where it says do not cut the plug off. It is a commercial hob.

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[marconi]

A combination I have used (years ago though) to handle 3kW load is a black MK safety plug and an unswitched metalclad MK 13A surface mount socket:

13 Amp MK Safety Plug - Charcoal | MK (646CHA) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK0646CHA.html

MK Metal Clad Plus Socket Outlet Unswitched Aluminium K848ALM - https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/mk-metal-clad-plus-socket-outlet-unswitched-aluminium-k848alm?gclid=CjwKCAiArOqOBhBmEiwAsgeLmUbYRmilPQYcrAxwV6UMQka02uxE-vbzsdfvewYJMBlJZltSEhEo7xoC5sAQAvD_BwE

MAke sure the socket terminals for L and N are 'filled' with copper - so Barrymore if necessary - to maximise the thermal conductivity and assist heat transfer away from the socket-plug combo along the feed cable. Note - a Black plug to aid radiation of heat. If possible have a small loop of feed cable in free air.

Might work for you.

 

[pc1966]

A combination I have used (years ago though) to handle 3kW load is a black MK safety plug and an unswitched metalclad MK 13A surface mount socket:

Good though to keep the switch's heat away! Can add a 20A DP isolator switch next to it as needed for safety when cleaning, etc.

@Daz2007 do they need to be unplugged at all? If not then a FCU would allow isolation by switching off for any cleaning, etc, and less risk of pings getting dirty/corroded and overheating as a result.

 

[ImpededLoop]

A combination I have used (years ago though) to handle 3kW load is a black MK safety plug and an unswitched metalclad MK 13A surface mount socket:

Problem is that sockets aren't made as well as they used to be. I doubt there's much brass in them these days.

 

[suffolkspark]

I've had a couple of moulded plugs decimate socket outlets, I had one of a commercial bread oven, and 1 on a "haygain" which basically steams hay bales. Replaced both with new plugs and never had an issue since.

 

[Midwest]

I've had a look and can't see anywhere where it says do not cut the plug off. It is a commercial hob.

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Email the manufacturer/retailor and ask them.

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[Daz2007]

Thanks for all the advice, I'm going to give them a call and see what they say. Guessing this is a common issue and won't be the first to call them.

 

[DPG]

Cutting a plug off does not void manufacturer's warranty, and you are well within your rights to do this. What would you do if the plug got damaged - throw away a grand's worth of appliance?

 

[brianmoooore]

Cutting off a 13A plug won't invalidate any warranty in itself. Connecting the appliance without appropriately sized fuse might.

 

[marconi]

Good though to keep the switch's heat away! Can add a 20A DP isolator switch next to it as needed for safety when cleaning, etc.

@Daz2007 do they need to be unplugged at all? If not then a FCU would allow isolation by switching off for any cleaning, etc, and less risk of pings getting dirty/corroded and overheating as a result.

The other aspect is the metal socket surface and back box to act like a heat sink and radiator.

 

[brianmoooore]

Something's gone very wrong with the design of these things if we have to rely on faceplates and back boxes as heatsinks to use them at their rated current

 

[pc1966]

Something's gone very wrong with the design of these things if we have to rely on faceplates and back boxes as heatsinks to use them at their rated current

I believe it is called "value engineering"