Abs and glow plug light errors,blowing 80 amp fuse. | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Abs and glow plug light errors,blowing 80 amp fuse. in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi yes ive got a metre,i changed all 5 a year ago,all good till a month ago did the ohm test 3 and 4 had high readings 55+,so changed them the rest 0.6,which apparently i should be looking for,but thats when problems started my glow plug light went out completely abs light came on permenetly,been nightmar3 ever since,the last test i did,i got .
no1 0.2 no2 0.2 no3 0.6 no4 0.6 no5 0.2,not been able to do another yet as ive ran out of fuses used 12 upto now doing tests it blows everytime i do preheat cycle on ignition,when the 80 amp abs fuse blows i dont get power to glow plug relay,sone fuse blow straight away sone tahe 6 turns of the ignition cycle waiting forcmore fuses now before i can carry on.been looking at doing an overide manual switch in the cab if its possible taking the relay out of the equation..
 
Dis you measure the glow plugs with each one disconnected from the loom? If those 3 glow plugs are 0.2 ohms they will be drawing 60a each. Sounds like they have failed short circuit. Did you replace them with pattern parts? Perhaps they have not been manufactured to the same standard as the originals.
 
No tested them connected,i replaced all 5 from europarts,was told just make sure they were 11.5 v which they were cant remember the make though,should i test unconnected aswell then and what sort of reading should i look for.
 
Ah yes if you test them connected to the loom you will be measuring the resistance across all 5 of them at once. Disconnect and check each one. I'm not sure exactly what the resistance should be, but looking online it seems that 0.6ohms is about right.
 
Yes take them out to test them individually. Try the circuit with them out to prove no short in harness . Euro parts are not renouned for quality parts either . Get a decent set if they are not reading as they should .
It is as @PEG said earlier . If you are blowing fuses at that rate you could have a shorted one.
 
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Fully agree with the Euro analysis,in the past,i have had alleged genuine Bosch parts,from them,which were snide,and in snide packaging, Heaven knows what the provenance of the cheap option,is.

As for the testing of glowplugs,remember readings will differ,from cold to operating temp. Your vehicle will as likely have,"post operation" of the glowplugs. This is continued operation,after starting,to enable steady,low rpm running.

The fact that the engine is running,dissipates the heat,and allows extended functioning. If you just apply a feed to the glowplug,without this,it will burn out,or at least become damaged.

You can test this,with a spare,unwanted plug,and watch it melt:)

They are usually Volt rated,too,so can be designed to operate under load,at anything from 5V to 11.5V.

If that yoke has a similar glowplug control unit,to the Sprinters,etc,it may have failed,and be allowing the plugs to stay on too long,thus burning them out,maybe till they short. The controller will have an input from an engine temperature sender,which may be faulty.

Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up ;)
 
Lmao quality that peg dont tempt me,ive got more 80 amp fuses due tomorrow,so cant play till then,could a dodgy glow plug cause that much ampage to blow an 80 amp fuse,its crazy to me ya could run a house on a fuse like that then all that it takes is one turn of a little key and bang please feed me with another fuse now.
 
don't forget that 80A on a house is 20,000watts.
80A @ 12V is 960watts.

change the plugs, then get a clamp meter on each lead on switch on.
 
[QUOTE="

Or do what any good ex-landrover owner would,and disconnect them,just having a pair of heavy cables,entering the cab,under the steering wheel,which smell like the electric dodgems at the fair,each morning,when you squeeze them together enabling it to fire-up ;)[/QUOTE]

Reminds me of the old Massey 65 ,turn the heater lever on with other thumb on the plug on the dash till your brain told you it was hot enough to start in the prevailing conditions lol.
 
Do your tests first,take the plugs out and try the circuit for an easy start ,even attach a lamp to the plug live if you want
 
Im sorry ruston,im a thicko bear with me so i take all the plugs out attach 1 at a time to harness and test,thicko bit do i test with multi meter,black cable on negative red in plug,please say yes my head hurts lol,now what do you mean by test circuit do you mean the loom itself without plugs in if yes negative again red on cable end where plugs attach,told you im thick.sorry to peck your head so much.
 
No either take them out (test them to make sure they are ok , your problem maybe there) or disconnect the leads from the plugs.
Isolate the bare ends from earth to stop them shorting.
If you want to you could connect a lamp or multimer to them securely , turn the ignition on and see if you get a reading or lamp lit, normally this would switch off when max temp and time has been satisfied , but as has been said they may have a cold engine run on to prevent lumpy cold running. If this does not blow a fuse then it may prove the harness is sound.
The best way is to test each live feed in the harnesss to ground, after testing for end to end continuity with your meter to see if any are shorted.
While you have the plugs out test them properly.
I take it the fuse is blowing instantly.

PS , if the lamp does not go out it may be the way the temp is read or as PEG alluded to earlier.
 
Hi,the fuse should definitely not,be smoking first...
You may have a high resistance issue,at the fuse holder. Check this first :)
 

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