Advice on spot lights please

[robbo777]

Hi

A Customer at a house that I am rewiring has asked for spotlights to be put in the kitchen and dining room, as i've never put in spotlights before I'd just like a bit of advice on the type and wiring please.

There will be 12 in the kitchen and 12 in the dining room,

What are the best type to go for? 12v or 240v? fire rated or normal?

The insulation that is going up in the ceiling is standard loft insulation and I am aware of the air gap needed but what do you use to maintain the air gap?

What are the usual wattage of these lights too please.

Many Thanks in advance

 

[Fin170]

Fire rated 240v, pref JCC Led 7w, bit expensive but well worth it in the long run. Next step down I'd go for Click fireguard ones, with Megaman 11w CFL lamps

I'd avoid 12v unless you like repeated call outs

 

[telectrix]

as above. go for 240V, LED if customer's budget will stretch to the cost. explain the benefit in cost saving over a year or so, he'll recover the cost od LEDs.

 

[robbo777]

He definitely wont go for the LED's as he's selling the house once done so he'll never get the chance to recoup the cost on them so I'm sure the 240v option sounds the best.

 

[makinglightwork]

yeah if he's selling the house I'd go for cheap fire rated downlight like CLICK Scolmore or something like that with a Gu10 lamp

 

[Adam W]

The cheapest ones you can possibly get then I suppose.

 

[robbo777]

yeah if he's selling the house I'd go for cheap fire rated downlight like CLICK Scolmore or something like that with a Gu10 lamp

What about the air gap above the lights? do they need it if they are fire rated?

 

[telectrix]

yep, saves £120 on transformers anyway. with halogens, thnough, make sure the insulating crap is pushed back and none over the top of the fittings.Line (forum sponsors) do a downlight connection kit which saves loads of time

 

[sedgy34]

yep me too gu10 aurora spots maybe 35w lamps just so your not going back changing them before house is sold

 

[makinglightwork]

What about the air gap above the lights? do they need it if they are fire rated?

theres no need to worry about air gap if you choose a forward heat emitting lamp I use Osram, they have a reflective back so all the heat is pushed forward so you don't get such a high heat build up like normal lamps, most decent wholesalers will keep them and their only a few pence more!

 

[Farmelectrics]

Isn't it as cheap to get the LEDs now I've been getting 6w ones for £6.50 great output buy the time you buy the fire cones to go over the halogens there's not much in it money wise

 

[Adam W]

If you buy fire rated fittings you don't need separate fire hoods.
You can get a fire rated GU10 fitting for under a fiver.

 

[Richard Burns]

theres no need to worry about air gap if you choose a forward heat emitting lamp I use Osram, they have a reflective back so all the heat is pushed forward so you don't get such a high heat build up like normal lamps, most decent wholesalers will keep them and their only a few pence more!

Aluminium reflector lamps will reduce the heat sent out backward but I believe you will still find that you need to remove the insulation around the fitting, they still get very hot.
The fire rated lights will make no difference to the requirement to remove insulation.
Aurora make a fitting that is designed to be covered in insulation as they have a built in ventilation space.

Remember that if you are using halogen or CFL lamps that they do not meet the Part L energy efficiency requirements.

 

[robbo777]

Thanks guys for your help, much appreciated as always