Altered ring main, now a DIFFERENT circuit is not working?

I’ve just altered a ring main by taking 1 leg out of the board and taking it to a spur (then taking a leg back), to add a socket in. After doing so I’ve turned the board back on and everything is working as it should, other than cooker circuit (A radial feeding the cooker/hob, extractor fan and a heater. After checking ALL the connections in the board are ok and there are no exposed cables etc, I’m left baffled.

I only started out about 12 months ago so I’m not sure if this is just me being stupid and naive or if I need to call in some help. Any ideas?
 
Hate to suggest this, but is it possible in mounting your new socket/FCU you have drilled through the cooker circuit.

Maybe do a full set of continuity test on the cooker circuit, see if a break has occurred.

Then check your work hasn't caused it then ask the customer if they've been doing any DIY recently.

Wouldn't be the first time a customer has asked for a relatively simple job knowing there is another fault they're hoping you'll resolve.
Possibly. I’m carrying out some tests tonight, hopefully, so I should have a rough answer as to what’s happened. Both the spur and the socket are located away from where I think the cables were, and surely this would trip the breaker if I’d gone through it? But like I say I’ll do some tests and let you know, could be right. Thanks
 
Not sure if I followed totally exactly what has been done.

I would check first there is outgoing power on the non-working circuit, i.e. MCB is actually working (had a few fail after switching off for other work), busbar prong in cage clamp (Wylex ones especially).
 
Not sure if I followed totally exactly what has been done.

I would check first there is outgoing power on the non-working circuit, i.e. MCB is actually working (had a few fail after switching off for other work), busbar prong in cage clamp (Wylex ones especially).
That’s my plan. I didn’t have any testers with me when problem occurred but will be checking this later on. And yeah I will double check the busbar too, which is Wylex. Thanks for advice
 
Dom, just take it easy and be methodical in your testing and write everything down. I’m the same as you, only been qualified for 14 months, so whenever I go to a job that sounds difficult, I write done everything I do as I go along, so if things go wrong like you’ve just found out, it’s easier to retrace your steps.

Ignore the negative replies mate, if you bite, they’ll just bait your more and more, just take heed from the the guys offering you advice.

Oh and by the way, good luck mate.
 
Dom, just take it easy and be methodical in your testing and write everything down. I’m the same as you, only been qualified for 14 months, so whenever I go to a job that sounds difficult, I write done everything I do as I go along, so if things go wrong like you’ve just found out, it’s easier to retrace your steps.

Ignore the negative replies mate, if you bite, they’ll just bait your more and more, just take heed from the the guys offering you advice.

Oh and by the way, good luck mate.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll take that on board. And thanks mate, really appreciate it. Good luck to your newly qualified self as well, all the best
 
Do a job, turn it on and use the bang test. Walk away. Does nobody actually test their work anymore before coming to the forum to get the fault diagnosed?!
 
In fa
Do a job, turn it on and use the bang test. Walk away. Does nobody actually test their work anymore before coming to the forum to get the fault diagnosed?!
In fairness it's not the circuit that the OP worked on that is faulty.

I've been thinking, dangerous I know, and cannot see how this would have shown up under the testing required.

Unless, that is, you do a full EICR on completion of minor works?
 
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