Another CU move

O

oldkentroad

I have moved into an old house, plenty needs doing, funds are tight. Meter and 3 fuseboxes are in a derelict extension of the house. Supply is PME. I want to put a new CU in the sound part of the house to replace the old fuseboxes. Unfortunately this would have to be in the kitchen. The most convenient place is in an eye-level cupboard but within touching distance of a stainless steel sink.

If that doesn't stop things, the plan would be:
- 100A lockable isolator after meter
- 25mm 3 core SWA from isolator / earthing point to new CU in the kitchen
- Taking 1 existing circuit at a time, remove from fusebox and pull through, shorten cables, wire into RCBO in new CU
- No new circuits to be added yet. Any that won't reach (those in derelict extension) to be discarded.
- Discard old fuseboxes

If I notify building control of this as a DIY job, how many flaws are there in the plan ?

Thanks
 
All depends what qualifications you hold, where I'm based 17th edition with 2391 with an installation certificate is acceptable.
 
I have moved into an old house, plenty needs doing, funds are tight. Meter and 3 fuseboxes are in a derelict extension of the house. Supply is PME. I want to put a new CU in the sound part of the house to replace the old fuseboxes. Unfortunately this would have to be in the kitchen. The most convenient place is in an eye-level cupboard but within touching distance of a stainless steel sink.

If that doesn't stop things, the plan would be:
- 100A lockable isolator after meter
- 25mm 3 core SWA from isolator / earthing point to new CU in the kitchen
- Taking 1 existing circuit at a time, remove from fusebox and pull through, shorten cables, wire into RCBO in new CU
- No new circuits to be added yet. Any that won't reach (those in derelict extension) to be discarded.
- Discard old fuseboxes

If I notify building control of this as a DIY job, how many flaws are there in the plan ?

Thanks

sounds like a good plan, and you seem to know what you are doing. CU in cupboard in touching distance of sink not a problem as long as cupboard has a door on it. As you say notify LABC and pay the fees. You will need to test it all so you can issue yourself a certificate. If you dont know how to do this then a local spark should be able to test and inspect it for you, it would also be a good idea for him to test your Ze as well, so you know that you have a good earth etc before you begin. he will sign the bit for test and inspection, you will sign for design and construction on completion.

Cheers..Howard
 
Howard

Building Controls what cover areas near me, only accept a certificate from an 17th edition 2391 electrician, if not you have to pay more than just a building notice for them to check the work.
 
Howard

Building Controls what cover areas near me, only accept a certificate from an 17th edition 2391 electrician, if not you have to pay more than just a building notice for them to check the work.

Tony

I know they do vary a bit from area to area, he will have to contact his LABC and see what they say. I dont know what happens in my area cos i am Part P reg anyway.

Cheers
 
The only problem I can see is the state of your existing installation. On an old property like yours I would recommend if you asked me to do a board change to have a full PIR done, after all it's no good putting a new engine in your car if the rest of it is falling apart.

If you do go ahead and do as you outlined you may get away with quite a lot using RCBO's but the one thing you won't get away with is poor insualtion resistance on the cables.

It may pay you to get a PIR done. Also if your doing this you will have to upgrade your exisiting bonding if it's not already to the 17th Standards.
 
Malcolm
It almost sounds as though you've seen this installation. Parts of it are dire but these are mostly not in the sound part of the house. Thanks for the advice - I'll take it - but I'll strip out the derelict part and any unused circuits first to avoid putting the tester in a very grumpy state of mind.
Many thanks.
 
sounds like a good plan, and you seem to know what you are doing. CU in cupboard in touching distance of sink not a problem as long as cupboard has a door on it. As you say notify LABC and pay the fees. You will need to test it all so you can issue yourself a certificate. If you dont know how to do this then a local spark should be able to test and inspect it for you, it would also be a good idea for him to test your Ze as well, so you know that you have a good earth etc before you begin. he will sign the bit for test and inspection, you will sign for design and construction on completion.

Cheers..Howard



I don't believe any building control will accept test results from an unqualified person
Paul
 
instead of using swa for your sub mains install 25mm/16mm split con from a 80amp kmf switch or 25mm twin and earth saves glanding of swa also you wont need metal clad lsolater or DB.
 
instead of using swa for your sub mains install 25mm/16mm split con from a 80amp kmf switch or 25mm twin and earth saves glanding of swa also you wont need metal clad lsolater or DB.

Perhaps your meaning something else methinks
 
well not 25mm twin and Earth, as I've never yet seen that, but if it is available could you post a link please
 
is it not true that your supposed to only terminate swa into metal fittings Malcolm?

I was actually refering to 25mm^ T+E as that is what I highlighted. But why can't you terminated SWA into a non ferrous enclosure??
 
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oldkentroad,
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