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Discuss Antique motor wiring in the Ireland area at ElectriciansForums.net

-NikD-

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Hey all

I have an old motor that I would like to repurpose. Its an old Lister/Hoover

I have searched the net but cannot find any specifics on its wiring. It says 200/220V but I am not sure which terminals to connect to and if I need to check anything else

[ElectriciansForums.net] Antique motor wiring


There are 4 terminals at the rear and what appears to be an oil port for the bearing



[ElectriciansForums.net] Antique motor wiring


the resistance readings across the terminals is as follows

[ElectriciansForums.net] Antique motor wiring


The capacitor has been laid against some cardboard inside the casing for quite some time and some of the markings are illegible

[ElectriciansForums.net] Antique motor wiring


Any help you could give would be great

TIA
 
I would expect there to be pressure applied to some part of that cutout for it to snap open and closed correctly. It looks to me like it is already in the 'on' position but the contact is open due to something not pushing on a certain part of it from the other side. Is it pushed in by something in the plastic housing? I've attached a photo of a thermostat that shows pressure being applied to 2 points in the mechanism (the 2 purple insulating pieces). The bi-metallic strip is the bar of metal at the top of this photo. as it gets hot it bends down pushing the copper contact piece in the middle down past the centre point and the lower contact on the left suddenly moves down away from the fixed silver upper contact. The lower pushing piece is adjustable up and down to set the switching temperature. The further down it is the more the bi-metallic strip will have to bend to push the copper strip past the centre point to switch it off.

Without the second pressure point the switch will just slowly move causing severe arcing. I wouldn't adjust anything to make the contacts close at this stage.
View attachment 117370
Is it possible to change the old one with a new one even if its not directly on the motor? If so what spec/rating would I look for? Or could I use a type C circuit breaker?
 
Is it possible to change the old one with a new one even if its not directly on the motor? If so what spec/rating would I look for? Or could I use a type C circuit breaker?

No you can't replace a thermal cutout with a circuit breaker, they are two completely different things.

The thermal cutout needs to be on the motor as it is measuring the temperature of the motor and cutting off the power if it gets too hot.
 
If you want to use the motor, you will need to get that thermal cutout working properly, and be certain it does!

The little phosphor bronze spring highlighted in the pic below is what causes the moving contact to 'snap' open and shut.
If I had the unit to play with I would be more confident to advise, but I would suggest you set your oven to say 60 or 70 degrees and see if the moving contact will snap away from the adjustable one. If not try a higher temp!

I'm thinking the bimetallic element is the 'silver' component, as it seems to be made of two layers.
Try heating the whole thing up and see if you can fathom its method of operation!

It will need to be set so the contacts are held firmly together at ambient temp. But I wouldn't bother adjusting anything until you've proved it works. I suppose it's possible it's got too hot in the past, which might have affected the 'springiness' of the components, in which case I'd abandon the project!

[ElectriciansForums.net] Antique motor wiring
 

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