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HappyHippyDad

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I have perhaps done 6 rewires now. They are hard work and I wonder if there are ways to make them easier as I have another 2 much larger ones (3 and 4 storey houses) coming up.

I typically take around 2 weeks for a 3 bed house. This is working flat out (by myself) everyday including one or 2 Saturdays and I feel that is a little longer than most of you would take, or is it about right?

I have just bought the metabo mfe40 wall chaser and hopefully that will speed things up. Are there any tips for using chasers? I'm guessing they just make nice neat notches either side of the chase which you then remove with an SDS chisel? Do you always then use oval conduit which you secure to the wall with the oval conduit holders or is there a quicker way?

Cheers all and hope you are having a relaxing Saturday!

Ps.. I'm awaiting the arrival of the triple blade for the metabo, anyone use it yet? Does it actually take out the middle of the chase well?
pps.. What size conduit do you generally use for 1mm, 2.5mm, 6mm, ring etc etc?
 
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Depending on the strength and condition of the existing mortar, you can sometimes get a good fix with clout nails (the thicker 3. something mm ones). Saves on drilling and plugging- not sure what wall dog is by the way
Wall dog....screws that don’t need plugs....quite pricey...but that sounds like a customer problem ?
 
Also goes without saying a decent twin disk wall chases and strong hoover attached are an absolute must..
I remember back in the 1990s doing my apprenticeship having to stitch drill chases then knock out the middle with a hammer and old beat up wood chisel...
 
Wall dog....screws that don’t need plugs....quite pricey...but that sounds like a customer problem ?
How have you found those walldogs generally @Baddegg ? I find them useful for fixing direct to plasterboard, and they're supposed to be good direct to thermolite block. But I haven't found them to be much use in anything harder.
 
Or these driven into the mortar joints: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233191870707 They only need to hold until the first coat of plaster goes on.

Why put T&E in a conduit?

conduit allows for future rewiring / later alterations / additional wiring to be pulled in.
if you simply plaster in the cables the next bloke has absolutely no chance pulling in a new cable...
 
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Don't understand your post Dusty, the hooks I put the link up for are to hold conduit in the chase?

The post above mentioned T&E and I was asking why you would put T&E in Conduit rather than single core.
 
How have you found those walldogs generally @Baddegg ? I find them useful for fixing direct to plasterboard, and they're supposed to be good direct to thermolite block. But I haven't found them to be much use in anything harder.
Love em mate, drill a smaller hole than stated and use an impact you’ll get a good fixing into brick work for back boxes, and agian once the bonding goes in and round the box it’s going nowhere
 
This French guide on max amount of cables in Conduit may be of help, but may not be within the UK regs:
 

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Don't understand your post Dusty, the hooks I put the link up for are to hold conduit in the chase?

The post above mentioned T&E and I was asking why you would put T&E in Conduit rather than single core.
Because the rest of the install is below The boards and clipped direct T&E you’d end up with junction boxes at every drop to a point. Very rare to have a Domestic completely run in conduit .
 
Conduit clips mean the oval stands out a bit far @happyhippydad, not much and anything that do t need to chased us a bonus, as per @Leesparkykent i just drill in behind at an angle plug it and then pinch the oval with a screw keeps it tight till the biding goes over ?

I am intending to try it with wall dog and no plugs just to speed things up a bit more ?
Do you use 20mm or 25mm oval conduit for 2 x 2.5mm twin &E baddegg?
 
I use 20mm oval HIppyDad ,just need to make sure the cables arent twisted and get pulled in evenly. I use the tower c clips to hold it in position, occasionally I when I run out Of clips I screw a couple of screws either side to pinch it into position. A squirt of werth Vaseline spray and a couple of turns of white tape around the end stops the tube from splitting. Get yourself a Rack a tier cable stand ,helps enormously when pulling in on your own.
 

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Always worth checking with mortar, cinder and concrete block as quite often you can get a reasonable fixing by going straight in with a standard screw and impact driver, just don't over tighten.

Useful for holding oval until filled, positioning trunking, not so much for mounting a DB.
 

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