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Allan

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Any idea how to wire this double lightswitch?
Picture of current lightswitch that is wired and new lightswitch

IMG_7608.JPG


IMG_7609.JPG
 
ignore the lettering on the new switch and wire up 1 at a time in the same configuration as the old switch. in other words, L1 on old switch is C on new switch. if you get it wrong, the 1 way switch may be upside down ( up for on). if so, just turn it over. make sure the supply is isolated first. can't see it, but i hope there's a gn/y sleeved connection to the back box. this need a (sleeved in gn/y )
fly lead to the earth terminal on your new switch ( the brass bit next to the screw hole ).
 
ignore the lettering on the new switch and wire up 1 at a time in the same configuration as the old switch. in other words, L1 on old switch is C on new switch. if you get it wrong, the 1 way switch may be upside down ( up for on). if so, just turn it over. make sure the supply is isolated first. can't see it, but i hope there's a gn/y sleeved connection to the back box. this need a (sleeved in gn/y )
fly lead to the earth terminal on your new switch ( the brass bit next to the screw hole ).

Ok so left side exactly the same and right side brown=c and blue = L2 . Or vice versa if wrong.

No theres no earth wired up to the light switches in this house ,im guessing there should be?

Thanks
 
No theres no earth wired up to the light switches in this house ,im guessing there should be?
Thanks
Yes should be. Earth wire may already be connected to the metal back box? (if it is you will be able to see it in there) Or it may exist in the cables but has been cut back. If so, you are better off to get an Electrician in to deal with it and test it afterwards.

Edit : sorry, Tel already advised on earthing :rolleyes:
 
if there is no earth then you can't fit a metal switch. end of.

edit: agree with wilko. might be better to get an electrician to visit and advise.
 
Sometimes it has been bent back so might be behind the back box, can you see the outer grey sheath? Careful if you go routing around though.
 
going by the cable insulation colours, the cpc's have got to be there. those cables were never manufactured without.
 
yes. you can either move the cpc from the back box to the switch, or add a fly lead from box to switch. either way is compliant, but the second method is good practice. you would then need to buy a bit of gn/y sleeving.

also, untwist the existing cpc from where it's showing bare copper round the blue conductor.
 

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