Attaching Fluorescent Batten flush to wall. Please help.

[Rhododendron]

Hi all, I am just about to attach some Fluorescent Battens to a wall. PLEASE excuse my ignorance - this is the first time I have installed lights like these!

On the back of the Battens, there are two sets of 4 x Bumps (please see the photos) that prevent the Battens from being attached flush to a flat surface, such as a wall or ceiling. This has slightly confused me - are these in place to STOP the Battens being flush against a wall or ceiling? Or does one need to use a certain fitting to install these kind of battens to a flat surface?

I had planned on screwing them in, directly to the walls. The fact there would be an almost 1/8" gap between the Battens & Lights unnerves me. Is this standard? Is it normal to have this gap?

Please see the photos attached. For anyone kind enough to read and respond: How would you go about installing these, and also which holes in the battens (pictured) would you use for the screws?

Any advice would be very much appreciated. All the very best.

 

[James]

There are a number of slots and round holes in the fittings, you can use any of them to mount it to the wall.
The bumps Are to prevent the heat from the fitting transferring to the surface it is mounted on.

old fittings used to get quite hot, the more modern high frequency ballasts are not so bad.

 

[Vortigern]

I don't usually use the slotted holes for fixing the batten, there are a number of round holes apart from the slots to use. The problem you may find is the cable entry to the light. If you are going from the wall directly into the base of the light then no problem. If you are entering the fitting another way there will not be enough room for the cable between the wall and fitting. Because the dimples stand off the case, if you tighten the screws holding it then the case will distort so be aware of that.
P.S. You say fluorescent I assume you mean LED battens, if not then you need to be careful of what height you mount them as the tubes are vulnerable to damage.

 

[brianmoooore]

Don't think these are LED - there are screws visible in one of the pics that would hold the ballast in place.
Many fluorescent batten fittings have 16mm or 2omm knockouts in the end caps that can be used for the entry of surface wiring, but note that non heat resisting cable must not come into contact with the ballast inside the fitting.
You can use any holes to attach the fitting that are convenient, often ones that line up with joists or studs on hollow walls or ceilings, but don't overtighten, or the fitting will be distorted because of the dimples. On occasions, I've been known to drill my own.

 

[Rhododendron]

Hello all, thank you so much for responding. What a kind and helpful forum this is

Yes, these are old-style Fluorescent lights, not more modern LED. They are being used for a special purpose (curing polymers). If I were to install general lights in the house, I would of-course use LED's.

I am going to connect the cables through the 20mm knockouts in the ends (using Cable glands to secure the cable in place).

It is interesting to read that these Bumps/Dimples are in place to actually create a gap between the Fitting & the walls - to stop the walls it will be attached to getting hot.


There are a number of holes in the fitting, and I will try to use some of them. But as brianmooore said, I suppose I could also drill some of my own if I wanted to? Very good advice too on not over-tightening the screws, as I can see how the thin metal enclosures could easily become distorted by doing this.

So, I'll just screw the fittings directly into the walls, leaving gaps between the fittings & walls that are created by the bumps/dimples.

Are there any other essentials I might be missing out, before I fit them?
Thank you again so much for all of your help.

 

[brianmoooore]

note that non heat resisting cable must not come into contact with the ballast inside the fitting.

Conventional ballasts run very hot. If passing a ballast is unavoidable, the 'normal' cable needs to be jointed to suitably rated high temperature wires before passing it.

 

[Rhododendron]

Hi Brian,
I have heat-resistant cable that I'll be using in full
Thank you

 

[brianmoooore]

Temperature of ballasts can exceed the rating of HR cable. Operating temp should be marked on the ballast.

 

[Rhododendron]

Temperature of ballasts can exceed the rating of HR cable. Operating temp should be marked on the ballast.

Thanks Brian. I'm going to ensure the cables completely bypass the Ballast - they'll be coming out of the end where the do not run past it. Great tips mate, I really appreciate it. Have a good day!