Best way for lifting floorboards?

[eskimo39]

Hi guys, could someone give me some advice on how you lift floorboards? If I am lifting one or two I usually just use my Fein multimaster to cut over the joist on each end and along the tongue.

I was shown at college to use a floorboard saw but I find them so time consuming. My boss also showed me a way breaking the tongue and groove from both sides with a chisel and then prying the board high enough to cut with a saw but I find this too destructive.

I am starting a job next week and have to lift a lot of boards (and it is an empty premisis so not too worried about mess) so was looking at buying a cheap circular saw, if I set it to the depth of the floorboard I am assuming there is minimal chance of catching anything below.

I have found a 1250w 190mm Skilsaw for £65 quid with a blade which seems a great price. Or should I look at a better brand.

What methods do you find best? Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp

 

[pennywise]

I use the multimaster or a cordless panasonic saw. Then I use one of these best thing I've bought in a while.

Special Electrician's Flooring Chisel : Buy Special Electrician's Flooring Chisel at Axminster Power Tool Centre

 

[Davey101]

Was going to say use a circular saw, but you beat me to it
As you say, just set it to the required depth, or a half mil less, cut down the tongue, then across the board. I dont suppose you are guaranteed not to cut anything though

 

[saveloy]

You won't go far wrong with a skill saw. They are made by Bosch. I've had mine for about 4 years and it's never let me down.

Little tip if you don't know: With floorboards (not tongue and groove sheets). Lever one end up and jam an old screwdriver as far down away from the lifted end as you can,so that the free end is held up in the air (away from the joist). Then keep whacking the free end. The rest of the board (past the screwdriver) that is still nailed will eventually pop up. You may have to move the screwdriver along a few times on long boards as the tension decreases.
Saves having to endlessly lever nails from a fixed board and also stops the board getting wrecked.

Sorry if you already know this and I'm trying to teach you to suck eggs

Edit: Just re-read your post. This won't work on T and G floorboards either, just normal floorboards.

 

[eskimo39]

Thanks for the replies, I use Bosch 36v drills so was tempted to buy a GKS36v-li cordless circular saw naked and just use my batteries for that. I can get one for £205 delivered but then am unsure just how many boards I can cut before it needs to be charged. The Skil seems great value at £65 delivered and although most of my gear is 110v I would get 240v as it would only really be used in domestic.

The panasonic looks excellent but I cant find them under £280.

Cheers

Also do you know which blade will be best. I have the option of a 12 toothed blade, a 24 toothed blade or a 72 toothed blade.

 

[High Tower]

Thanks for the replies, I use Bosch 36v drills so was tempted to buy a GKS36v-li cordless circular saw naked and just use my batteries for that. I can get one for £205 delivered but then am unsure just how many boards I can cut before it needs to be charged. The Skil seems great value at £65 delivered and although most of my gear is 110v I would get 240v as it would only really be used in domestic.

The panasonic looks excellent but I cant find them under £280.

Cheers

Also do you know which blade will be best. I have the option of a 12 toothed blade, a 24 toothed blade or a 72 toothed blade.

12 tooth as you only need a ripping blade, 24 is wood working and 72 is fine finish

 

[Eggster71]

Look out for a nail ripping blade, the points on them are stronger and will cope with hitting a few nails. I generally use a flat nail bar, I have a straight claw hammer. Estwing 16 oz Rip Claw Hammer, Vinyl Grip Solid Steel Handle, F - Read reviews, compare prices and buy Estwing Tools and Accessories online at DealTime UK which is much easier
to get under boards than the standard ones.

 

[High Tower]

I used to use a stanley Fubar, stopped that now as i was making far to much fire wood. my business partner used to be a chippy before he retrained and was always moaning about me and my floorboard tecnique!.

Apparently the " smash it to bits, and then leave it to Adam to sort" is not a apropriate method

 

[pennywise]

I think the panasonic has gone up in price as it's made in Japan all their stuff has gone up because of the exchange rate. I think, when I bought mine I paid £240 inc the VAT though I then had to buy the wood blade for another £50 . If the floor is a nice finished floor I always tell the customer to get a chippy in to lift the boards, I know I could do it but I would prefer someone else to take the hit if it doesn't go down properly again, call me mean but just don't want the hassle

 

[ezzzekiel]

Apparently the " smash it to bits, and then leave it to Adam to sort" is not a apropriate method

lol very funny

 

[Anonomoose]

I tend to use a bolster to break the tongue & groove then hand saw to cut across if i need to after levering it up with claw hammer. Would like to use a saw but paranoid about catching something underneath.

 

[acat]

I tend to use a bolster to break the tongue & groove then hand saw to cut across if i need to after levering it up with claw hammer. Would like to use a saw but paranoid about catching something underneath.

I agree with you much safer that way


Chris

 

[Des 56]

All these tips and knowhow should now be posted to the relevant Plumbing forums

Help the needy folks

 

[Spudnik]

All these tips and knowhow should now be posted to the relevant Plumbing forums

Help the needy folks

Steady

Gotta be a bit careful with the bolster thing.

If you are doing this upstairs, you could pop the plaster off the nail heads in the plasterboard below

 

[flukey]

as long as you set the correct depth on your circular saw you should be fine, works for me