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S

stimpy

Evening,

Anyone know the book/industry times for chopping 1g & 2g 35mm back boxes in concrete block and then fixing . All using power tools.

I know how long it would take me! But will be subbies... My luckins doesnt list it and my old spons only has chopping by hand times which I reckon my mum could do quicker...

TIA
 
???

Why do I actually care? Great response!??.. :6:

I care because I'm pricing 2 very large jobs from drawings and rather than using my regular methods of guesstimating through I'm trying out the BOOK method of pricing as these projects are very large for me - there are book times for everything from conduit installs to blokes scratching their arse - this is how all the estimators on large firms price work.

I'll admit I left out its solid concrete block on new build....

If you're talking about LARGE firms and LARGE jobs....somehow i don't think they'll be wasting their time counting hundreds of individual sockets and splitting into 1st fix, wiring, 2nd fix, etc....it's average price per socket, full stop.
 
As I pressed submit I thought to myself " he's gonna say get the spec"!!! Haha..

The developer is a mate and is woolly and busy, he's suggested I allow both scenarios for now....

This Developer seems a bit hit and miss, make sure you dot the Is cross the Ts and check to the enth degree these "mates" will screw you for everything if you ain't careful, bit of a chancer by the sound of it, seen plenty of them as soon as something goes wrong, hes not to blame. I told him this that and the other as long as the ess H one T don't stick to him/her.
 
You can't account for the unseen, just add a clause in your quote foe any unseen problems as described in the previous post, but actually its part and partial of any wiring job of this sort, do it as an extra time only.
 
You can't account for the unseen, just add a clause in your quote foe any unseen problems as described in the previous post, but actually its part and partial of any wiring job of this sort, do it as an extra time only.
add in your clause, for breeze block walls only, additional charges and time constraints might apply on other surfaces
 
This Developer seems a bit hit and miss, make sure you dot the Is cross the Ts and check to the enth degree these "mates" will screw you for everything if you ain't careful, bit of a chancer by the sound of it, seen plenty of them as soon as something goes wrong, hes not to blame. I told him this that and the other as long as the ess H one T don't stick to him/her.

It's fine , I've done many projects with him, hundreds of ÂŁKs worth of work over the years. He just cba to find out. Which is fine so long as I specify.

These 2 developments are the largest we've both done hence the basic spec was drawn up by a large firm and tenders have gone out. All previous work have had no tenders, just me and him with open book and agreed percentages. That will not be the case on these.
 
If you're talking about LARGE firms and LARGE jobs....somehow i don't think they'll be wasting their time counting hundreds of individual sockets and splitting into 1st fix, wiring, 2nd fix, etc....it's average price per socket, full stop.

I don't agree they have to have a schedule works which can only be drawn up by accounting time. Certainly not with these firms. Besides, sockets and switches play a small part in the make up of this job - there's tray, panel boards, ashps , mvhr, pv, controls, specialist wiring, lighting scene controls, full av, data , hd, security, fap, cctv blah blah blah.
 
5 mins to make correct size hole for 1g, 8 mins for 2g.
3 mins to get metal back box securely fitted, hole knocked out and rubber grommet in.
Add 5-10 minutes if brick/concrete starts crumbling and its difficult to get rawl plugs in.
Those would be my times (approx)

and you can't get the box square to the wall which is why I don't fix them that way in old houses, instead I bed them in with Hardwall or drywall adhesive. Works REALLY well with a bit of corrupted water so it goes off quicker. Hold the cable in place in the chase and gunk over with same mix thus negating the need for clips or capping. It also means that one can quote for the whole gig rather than saying see you when the plaster is done.
 
This Developer seems a bit hit and miss, make sure you dot the Is cross the Ts and check to the enth degree these "mates" will screw you for everything if you ain't careful, bit of a chancer by the sound of it, seen plenty of them as soon as something goes wrong, hes not to blame. I told him this that and the other as long as the ess H one T don't stick to him/her.

A really good point there Pete, @ the OP, if you are going to go ahead, make sure your terms and conditions are watertight.
 
and you can't get the box square to the wall which is why I don't fix them that way in old houses, instead I bed them in with Hardwall or drywall adhesive. Works REALLY well with a bit of corrupted water so it goes off quicker. Hold the cable in place in the chase and gunk over with same mix thus negating the need for clips or capping. It also means that one can quote for the whole gig rather than saying see you when the plaster is done.

Not applicable on these projects.

But have used both with success over the years though I'd always use metal capping. These days I largely send a plasterer in after so we can get on our next jobs.
 
and you can't get the box square to the wall which is why I don't fix them that way in old houses, instead I bed them in with Hardwall or drywall adhesive. Works REALLY well with a bit of corrupted water so it goes off quicker. Hold the cable in place in the chase and gunk over with same mix thus negating the need for clips or capping. It also means that one can quote for the whole gig rather than saying see you when the plaster is done.

Dave's special recipe:
Bonding coat plaster with a sprinkling of OPC,
Wet the chase first to make it stick
Slap it in quick and half hour later it's gone off hard.

Or for the really speedy jobs substitute rapid setting cement for the OPC!
 

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