Can you extend meter tails inside a consumer unit ? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Can you extend meter tails inside a consumer unit ? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

Oh my word - how did I miss this, I can see the reason for the 2nd main switch !! See photograph below. I'm right the far right MS2100 switch is connected the wrong way round, and the tails are then connected in reverse to the middle main switch to correct the polarity, which is why I didn't pick it up. You can just see at the top of the MEM switch the Neutral is in the Line and the Line is in the Neutral
I don't think there is a right/wrong for far right switch, other than how the manufacturer intended it's installation in that CU.
The middle switch had to be connected that way around as presumably the bus bar has a leg in the Line at the bottom and needs to extend to the right.
So I don't think anything has incorrect polarity in practise, other than the markings being backwards on the middle switch.
Found what this board SHOULD look like. I'm just wondering if I should just get one of these, rip the inards out of both, and put the inards of this one into the one in the wall, and not faff about trying to rewire or understand the mess.
Sounds like a plan, but I'd IR test each circuit first, L+N to earth to find any potential issues when circuits become RCD protected again..
 
My solution to this would be to leave the RH main switch exactly as it is, remove everything else and fit a full house of RCBOs.
I'm not familiar with Niglon CUs, but as long as the switch out terminal and the MCB/RCBO in terminals line up, a new busbar an be fitted.
Any original polarity markings on the main switch should be erased, as it's now reversed as to what is was originally.
This solution is relatively simple, doesn't disturb the décor, provides an upgrade to the protection, and imposes a sufficient financial penalty on the householders to dissuade them from employing bodgers again.
 
My solution to this would be to leave the RH main switch exactly as it is, remove everything else and fit a full house of RCBOs.
^^this^^

But the Eaton MS in the middle has me wondering if there's a fault causing the RCD to trip and this was his/her bodge to get round it.
 
^^this^^

But the Eaton MS in the middle has me wondering if there's a fault causing the RCD to trip and this was his/her bodge to get round it.
That's one of the reasons I suggested RCBOs. It will be easier for the consumer to comprehend if, for instance, a socket circuit trips out, that it's their washing machine causing it. None of this "why don't my lights work if the washing machine is duff?"
 
That's one of the reasons I suggested RCBOs. It will be easier for the consumer to comprehend if, for instance, a socket circuit trips out, that it's their washing machine causing it. None of this "why don't my lights work if the washing machine is duff?"
I don't even fit split load boards anymore, they're so last year... ?
 
Found what this board SHOULD look like. I'm just wondering if I should just get one of these, rip the inards out of both, and put the inards of this one into the one in the wall, and not faff about trying to rewire or understand the mess.
Is that an official 'publicity' shot? If so and that's the best they could get things to fit then that's not a great advertisement - worse than the MK lean!

Might well be the best way to resolve what's there given the limitations of replacing it... Though some RCBOs for at least some circuits sounds like a good idea too.

If that's difficult (not sure what their availability of Type A stuff is), then (Tin hat time) - other than perhaps not being able to rely on 16kA breaking current - are there really any risks in replacing it all with another brand of matched switchgear that has been type tested together - I doubt the enclosure it is in makes much difference in terms of safety...
 
Is the second rcd still there somewhere, or has it been binned? Id have no issue with crimping the tails with a hydraulic crimper and heat sleeve, and refitting the second rcd and putting it back to standard, but remember the downstream mcbs shouldn't exceed the rating of the rcd anymore if its got a bigger main fuse in, and really we all ought to be fitting type A rcds too now (can't see what type that one is) personally I'd have the whole thing in the bin and start again.
 

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