Can you hardwire a plug-in LED set of lights (for under kitchen cabinets)?

[NabeelK]

Hi there,

I am getting my kitchen replaced next week and I need to buy some undercabinet lighting. I prefer to have them hardwired instead of plugged-in so that we have a free socket and less cables running around.

I have found a set of dimmable puck LED lights on amazon which I like but these come with their own plug-in adapter. I asked the seller and he said they cannot be hardwired.

I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Leesparkykent]

I would install led strip on the back of the pelmet if you have one...Looks a lot better than fittings.

 

[NabeelK]

I would install led strip on the back of the pelmet if you have one...Looks a lot better than fittings.

Thanks for reply. I think you are suggesting I use LED strip instead of LED pucks which I will consider. However my question was if it is technically possible to not use the supplied Plug-in adapter and to hardwire directly with a separate transformer into lighting circuit. What I don't understand is how to make the light cables "invisible" in a plugged-in scenario..

 

[Leesparkykent]

Thanks for reply. I think you are suggesting I use LED strip instead of LED pucks which I will consider. However my question was if it is technically possible to not use the supplied Plug-in adapter and to hardwire directly with a separate transformer into lighting circuit. What I don't understand is how to make the light cables "invisible" in a plugged-in scenario..

you could find a suitable driver or mount the socket obove the cupboards and plug it in. If you have a cornice you won't see it.

 

[1Justin]

It's much nicer to choose some decent quality LED strip, aluminium extrusion and separate wireable LED driver.

But if you really must use a set with a power-brick type supply.. (You probably you get a lower quality light as well. Done with the downsides yet?) - then you have a couple of options.
1) Glue the power brick permanently into a flying lead plug socket. Make them inseparable. Thus you have created an (ugly great) power block which can then be wired into a lighting circuit without danger of anyone pulling out the plug and using it for the vaccum cleaner.
2) Read the specs of the power supply block and buy a separate in-line LED driver which is compatible. The block may be constant voltage (12V or 24V) or some other voltage, or it may be a constant current (typically 100-300 mA at up to a few tens of volts). LED strips usually being the former. And also make sure the power rating is adequate (unlikely not to be). Ultimately all LED's require a constant current, but many LED strips have inbuilt resistors for current limiting, and can thus run off a constant voltage.

 

[Midwest]

Thanks for reply. I think you are suggesting I use LED strip instead of LED pucks which I will consider. However my question was if it is technically possible to not use the supplied Plug-in adapter and to hardwire directly with a separate transformer into lighting circuit. What I don't understand is how to make the light cables "invisible" in a plugged-in scenario..

The use of such LED lights & plug in adaptor/driver/transformer, is so that persons with only DIY skills can install such luminaires in their properties, without altering the properties wiring.

If you try and attempt anything else, you will have to do that. I take it you do not have such skills?

 

[NabeelK]

It's much nicer to choose some decent quality LED strip, aluminium extrusion and separate wireable LED driver.

But if you really must use a set with a power-brick type supply.. (You probably you get a lower quality light as well. Done with the downsides yet?) - then you have a couple of options.
1) Glue the power brick permanently into a flying lead plug socket. Make them inseparable. Thus you have created an (ugly great) power block which can then be wired into a lighting circuit without danger of anyone pulling out the plug and using it for the vaccum cleaner.
2) Read the specs of the power supply block and buy a separate in-line LED driver which is compatible. The block may be constant voltage (12V or 24V) or some other voltage, or it may be a constant current (typically 100-300 mA at up to a few tens of volts). LED strips usually being the former. And also make sure the power rating is adequate (unlikely not to be). Ultimately all LED's require a constant current, but many LED strips have inbuilt resistors for current limiting, and can thus run off a constant voltage.

Thanks for your help. I think I have my answer in that I need to buy a compatible separate in-line LED driver. With the right wattage rating. And have that wired into the lighting circuit. I assume that a wall switch is then used to turn off/on (should this be fused?).

Regarding use of LED strips, I did not realise you can have them housed in an aluminum extrusion! Having them installed naked on the underside of the cabinets put me off initially. I will have a look on amazon for these housings now.

Thanks for the responses! And apologies if my questions are really elementary.

 

[NabeelK]

The use of such LED lights & plug in adaptor/driver/transformer, is so that persons with only DIY skills can install such luminaires in their properties, without altering the properties wiring.

If you try and attempt anything else, you will have to do that. I take it you do not have such skills?

You are right, I do not have the experience of altering any wiring. I have kitchen fitters coming to replace the kitchen next week and they should install under cabinet lighting that I will be buying separately. I just wanted to make sure that whatever I buy can be hardwired upon request, don't want to be told by fitters that it cannot be done or that it is too difficult a task and then having to settle for plugged-in instead.

 

[Strima]

Get some good double sided tape as well as the stuff that normally comes with the LED tape can peel off quite quickly.

 

[Octopus]

No doubt your kitchen refit will need some wiring changes so I would recommend you ask the sparky involved what he recommends.

Plug in kitchen lights are a PITA.

There are far better options, sure they may cost a bit more, but compared to the cost of a new kitchen it won't be much more.

I would also recommend you consider switching from the light switch position too.

 

[Midwest]

You are right, I do not have the experience of altering any wiring. I have kitchen fitters coming to replace the kitchen next week and they should install under cabinet lighting that I will be buying separately. I just wanted to make sure that whatever I buy can be hardwired upon request, don't want to be told by fitters that it cannot be done or that it is too difficult a task and then having to settle for plugged-in instead.

The aluminium extrusions do provide some protection for LED tapes, but they are primarily to provide a better enclosure for looks, and prevents the tapes falling off the underside of cabinets, after a few months exposure to steam from kettles and other such kitchen appliances.

Collingwood Lighting Collingwood Lighting - Specialising in LED, Collingwood Lighting offers you an exciting range of innovative products to help you make the right choice every time. - http://www.collingwoodlighting.com/en/, offer some very good, if not expensive products. There are a lot of other companies providing similar products.

I have just purchased some LED tape lighting for a customer from this supplier Kitchen Under Cabinet Lighting, LED Strip Lights and LED Tape - https://www.simplelighting.co.uk/, primarily because their extrusion was cheaper (same product) than Collingwood. However, I've not used them before, so can't vouch for them.

Have a look at Collingwood site, it may give you some ideas, but I would suggest employing a competent electrician to install it for you. If you go down this route, it is not cheap. You could try something like this from Ansell Lighting https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk...id+Strip+Light+900mm+13W+Warm+White/437495007.