Change of cooker/oven | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Change of cooker/oven in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

He is showing in regard to diversity with a oven. But saying a 6mm is good for 15kw is a invalid argument as its not.
seems to me all you need is the hob wiring to the cooker point.

Why is that statement ''invalid''??

Were talking about the diversity formula, as shown in BS 7671 OSG etc, Which used to state for cookers up to 15KW. Not sure if that is still current, i'll have to check...
 
ramonford, the facts.

Your existing cooker circuit should be tested to ensure it is safe and sound.

If it is then you can connect the new hob to it with 4mm² cable - end of.


As for the oven, if it comes with a plug attached you can plug it into a socket.

However, for convenience and safety it would be better to also connect it to the existing cooker circuit with the hob.
This way the cooker switch will also switch off the oven, which may be useful in an emergency.

You may be able to use the cable supplied with the oven but as it will probably not be capable of handling 32A (the MCB size) certain conditions must be met.
In view of this I would recommend replacing the oven cable with 4mm2 which will be capable of handling 32A.
Or a 13A FCU or socket could be installed spurred from the cooker outlet plate.


You do not need to update your present installation to the latest requirements of the regulations.

That's all there is to it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Why is that statement ''invalid''??

Were talking about the diversity formula, as shown in BS 7671 OSG etc, Which used to state for cookers up to 15KW. Not sure if that is still current, i'll have to check...
In regard to a old style cooker I agree but the new induction hobs work different and diversity can't be used. Just wouldn't like somebody doing DIY to just try to wire a 15kw heater to a 6 mm cable thinking that's ok.
 
ramonford, the facts.

Your existing cooker circuit should be tested to ensure it is safe and sound.

If it is then you can connect the new hob to it with 4mm² cable - end of.




As for the oven, if it comes with a plug attached you can plug it into a socket.

However, for convenience and safety it would be better to also connect it to the existing cooker circuit with the hob.
This way the cooker switch will also switch off the oven, which may be useful in an emergency.

You may be able to use the cable supplied with the oven but as it will probably not be capable of handling 32A (the MCB size) certain conditions must be met.
In view of this I would recommend replacing the oven cable with 4mm2 which will be capable of handling 32A.
Or a 13A FCU or socket could be installed spurred from the cooker outlet plate.


You do not need to update your present installation to the latest requirements of the regulations.

That's all there is to it.

Thank you for a most clear and concise explanation that I am able to understand

Your advise is appreciated, and I will make ensure the appliances are connected cost effectively.

Thanks to all who have participated in this post.
 
In regard to a old style cooker I agree but the new induction hobs work different and diversity can't be used. Just wouldn't like somebody doing DIY to just try to wire a 15kw heater to a 6 mm cable thinking that's ok.

Are you saying that induction hob elements aren't controlled?? Of course they are!! They like conventional elements will be switching off and on according to the settings made on it's controller. I have a decent sized induction hob in my home, that when combined with the oven has a total KW rating of around nearly 16KW!! Supplied by 6mm singles (in concealed PVC conduit) on a 32A RCBO, and never had any problems whatsoever...

By the way, cooking elements and heating elements do not operate in the same way, and therefore can't or shouldn't be compared with each other as you're suggesting here...
 
I'm probably wrong as you obviously know a lot more than me about induction hobs, but from what I have read they vary the voltage to control the current induced into the pan, so don't switch on or off like a ceramic element, In which case at full load they take the rated current constant.
 
Sorry to butt in late on this one, but the key is the manufacturers instructions for the hob. Many are advertised as say 6kw, but through power sharing limit the maximum demand to approx 20 amps.

Regards
 

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