Comments on specification recommendation

James_M · Feb 25, 2018

Hi all,

Bit of a long post - sorry!

Am developer/client on a residential project (new block of flats) where an engineer has specified some equipment, and was hoping to get some feedback from guys on the tools if you see what I mean?.

Integrated LED spots (type not specified - to be confirmed)
Switches/Sockets/LED Dimmers - MK Logic Plus (inc. grid switches)
Panelboards & Distribution Boards - MEM Eaton
Switch & Fusegear - MEM
CU - Schneider Type A (Acti 9 Isobar), Eaton (no range specified)
RCBOs & Mini circuit breakets - Schneider iC60H, Eaton (no range specd)
Moulded Case Circuit Breakers - Schneider NS & NSX, Eaton (no range)

Doing some research the 2 areas I have some thoughts on are the integrated LED spots and the MK Logic Plus stuff. As a non spark the other areas are outside the comfort zone!

For the integrated LEDs I can't work out what the point is? Would rather just have a fitting (eg: Scolmore flameguard or similar) and a GU10 LED bulb (eg: EN-DGU005 - Aurora Enlite 5w dimmable), so if/when it goes can just change the bulb over. I have done this on a previous development but that one I was both the developer and main contractor. It was also cheaper than an integrated fitting.

Tried looking at the JCC Hybrid9 (and Enlite gear) as I thought 10 years no hassle job jobbed, but then *if* (when?) it goes wrong, it's a pain to sort it out. Also, in 10 years time, I know I can probably buy a GU10 bulb, but can I definitely get a JCC Hybrid9 replacement lamp thing (or Enlite fitting)? For some reason though the market loves integrated so maybe am missing something important here?

For the switches, I think the MK gear looks quite expensive for what it is, and the reports on quality seem to be quite negative. The MK dimmer (K1523WHILV) seems to also have issues with buzzing based on the tiny number of Amazon reviews available. They do offer a 20 year guarantee though from what I can tell on the non-dimmer stuff, and 10 on the dimmer.

On a previous job we used all varilight screwless and had no issues, so had that on the mind as it would save a bit while looking good. Their v-pro dimmer also seems to be the dogs danglies. 10 years on their gear. Hager Sollysta and the Click stuff look nice, but no LED dimmers and a bit wary of buying separate dimmer modules with different brand faceplate for when/if things go wrong.

If you have any thoughts at all, would be really welcome. The aim is to have a good quality, easy to maintain building at a sensible price.

Thanks!
James

PEG · Feb 25, 2018

Whose idea was it to fill the kitchen with grid switches?

James_M · Feb 25, 2018

PEG said:
Whose idea was it to fill the kitchen with grid switches?

That was the engineer - assume it'll be in a single cupboard in one of the wall units.

Is this a bad idea?! On the last site the electrician I used insisted on using it, even though we had individual ones at/near appliances at worktop level indicated initially.

PEG · Feb 26, 2018

Whose idea was it to fill the kitchen with grid switches?

James_M said:
That was the engineer - assume it'll be in a single cupboard in one of the wall units.

Is this a bad idea?! On the last site the electrician I used insisted on using it, even though we had individual ones at/near appliances at worktop level indicated initially.

Hi,just a personal thought,that it seems fashionable in some instances,to have a Startrek console in a new kitchen,causing possible consternation for the spark,and no discernible benefit,to the client.

Could spend the time and effort on the lighting? People love to show off,their nice lighting...nobody gets reciprocal invites,for suggesting "Come round and let me show you my new individual means of isolating a variety of white-goods from a single panel..."

Adam W · Feb 26, 2018

James_M said:
That was the engineer - assume it'll be in a single cupboard in one of the wall units.

Is this a bad idea?! On the last site the electrician I used insisted on using it, even though we had individual ones at/near appliances at worktop level indicated initially.

The idea behind them is to provide an accessible point of isolation so for example you can switch the fridge off in a hurry if you start getting smoke coming out of it. As such you'd normally have it above the worktop or perhaps behind a door, but not at the back of a cupboard.

You don't have to have them, but they can make the kitchen seem neater - the alternative could be to have a switch above or near to every appliance - fridge/freezer, boiler, hob, extractor, washing machine, dishwasher, oven, tumble dryer... That's 8, in addition to the sockets above the worktop, and it's almost worth putting them all in dado or bench trunking.