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Who cares, just palm it off on a pipe fitter! :smilielol5:

Exactly!!

That said, there's some good useful stuff on you tube showing exactly how it's done.

You would have liked my last “conduit” install in the casting shop. It was close to the hot metal so the best thing to use was 1” black iron pipe.

One of the other shift teams had originally used SWA, that lasted ½ a shift. Galvanised conduit came next, that succumbed to the production lads cleaning iron splash off with a windy pick.

Before anyone asks, we would always try to avoid the danger spots. Sometimes they couldn’t be avoided and drastic measures were needed.
 
Where is the back of the bend on the conduit former?

Measure the distance from the fixed point to the object you are passing over, call this measurement A. Now measure the depth of the object, call this measurement B.

Subtract B from A and mark conduit.

Now you need two 600mm rules, one of which will adjust for the angle. Now subtract B from the 600mm rule, place the other 600mm rule and adjust to new measurement, this is your bending angle.

place conduit in bender and position mark so it sits on the edge of the former. Bend to the angle of the adjustable rule.

Now remove conduit, and place so a parallel line set to measurement B is below, now mark conduit where the conduit crosses that line.

Again place in bender and place mark so it sits on edge of former and bend until parallel with conduit.

You will get perfect sets and less waste.
 
and herein comes another measurement....... grip the conduit in the right place for a saddle to cover the vice marks.
 
But the teeth of the vice still bite into the galv or enamel.

Galv and enamel can and will crack off at the bends with the carp quality of pipe these days and whatever you do there will be a slither of bare metal at each joint. Plus the guide on the stocks will scratch a bit as it goes round.

Painting the conduit is not just about what it looks like, it's to maintain the protective coating of the conduit.
 
Time to change your college Shanky, or demand your money back:6::grin:


Boydy
i didnt add a rag to the list but would use it with treflex on galv.

not the way i would do it, answer me a question

what is the point iin spraying cuts on pre galv trunking etc in a boilerhouse?

it will rust like a bastad anyway
 
The point is to repair the galv coating wherever it is compromised.
You should use a 'zinc rich' paint of some kind.

If you know for certain that it is going to rust despite being properly treated then you shouldn't be installing it there in the first place!
 

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