no one has asked is it a electric hob and electric oven or gas hob or fan oven (they can use a lot less power) and at the moment if u turn off isolator dose the oven and hob go of or just oven

You beat me to it!
 
does the oven and hob come in two separate parts ?, if so you will need to find out what each part will pull and do your calculations accordingly before attempting this, dont just fit it with what you got from the old cooker do it correctly and it will help you learn
 
Might just quickly jump on the back of this despite its an old post...

Ive just been asked to change a cooker swtich in anticipation of a new induction hob...havnt been to the job yet as im not due to go and inspect till tuesday morning but was curious as to why i may need to change the switch at all? If it is the case like casper has where by the oven is now in two parts, are both parts still terminated within the same connection unit...wouldnt that be a touch crowded. Provided the new hob is rated the same as the existing...surely i dont need to change anything just install the new unit into the existing fixtures.
 
you will have to check the rating of the hob and oven, apply diversity and see if the existing circuit is OK for the load. then might be advisabe to fit a double connection unit.
 
What a mssive noob, scratch my comment. Having just spent a second to think about that (which i should have done before i started typing), i would imagine instead i would have to in fact install a seperate cicrcuit for each - cooker/hob. BUT would i put them both on seperate switches?
 
no need for separate switches. unless client wants separate.
 

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