Convert 110V Waffle Iron to 220V

[Billebaars]

Hi all,

I recently purchased a Chef's Choice Cone Maker 838, which is a fairly basic waffle iron. The problem is, that as it is a product from the USA its operating voltage is 120V at 60Hz and 1050 Watt (these are probably the max values). Would there be any way of converting this to the UK 220V as this machine will probably fry when hooked up unmodified.

The iron is probably no more than a heating element with a thermostat, similar to a toaster. Would simply replacing the resistor element in the thermostat suffice? There are also two lights on it, but I don't mind if they break.

A step down voltage converter is too expensive for what it's worth, perhaps anybody could suggest a cheaper converter for this power output as cycles and ac/dc are of no importance to the waffle iron.

Thanks

 

[aptsys]

I hoped this was the case, but unfortunately they're in series. Would've made things a lot easier.

Are you sure? The photos indicate that there is another load coming off in parallel from the first element.

Some more pictures would be useful. A 55V element sounds a bit odd.

 

[Billebaars]

I've carefully studied the make up of the waffle iron and have concluded that it's indeed in parallel (damn, should've figured that out the first time). The attached picture is a diagram of the waffle iron.
AC = power imput
R1 = heating element attached to top plate
R2 = heating element attached to bottom plate
1 = probably "Ready" light
2 = probably "On/Off" light
Adj. Bimetal = bimetal thermostat which can be adjusted with the dial
? = the mystery part. This is attached to the top plate, but not to R1 other than a wire. It's attached with what seems to be a ceramic holder.

The heating elements have the following engraved on them "729K 115V 500W" (729K might be the max temp?)

Anybody any idea what this mystery part is. It might be a thermal fuse, but it does not seem broken and doesn't look at all like any thermal fuses I've seen. Perhaps it's purpose is for the "Ready" light, but the main power is directly attached to it.

(I've reattached the pictures of the part)

 

[Engineer54]

Perhaps it's function was to stop those foolish enough to whack 230 volts across a 115volt appliance... lol!!!!

 

[Billebaars]

Perhaps it's function was to stop those foolish enough to whack 230 volts across a 115volt appliance... lol!!!!

Hehe, maybe so, however the machine worked for weeks!

 

[Engineer54]

Ain't working now though, ...is it?? haha!!!

 

[Marvo]

Okay, one leg of the power goes through a thermal non-resettable fuse AKA 'the mystery part' which then supplies one side of both elements that are wired in parallel.

Here's a link to a possible replacement from RS Components. It's a self resetting variety which looks best suited to your application, you'll just need to figure out a way of mounting it against the plate. You may also need some additional silicone sleeve to insulate the wires. Not sure of the temperature range you require, maybe around 150-200 Celsius at a guess.

Another option is pick something from the Honeywell redi-temp range.

The other adjustable component is a simmerstat (AKA energy regulator). It modulates the power to the elements on/off at different time ratios depending on the adjustable setting. It does not measure temperature of the plates, it's a 'blind' control. There will also be a Honeywell replacement available.

 

[rocker]

Hi, I like a lot of syrup on my waffles.

You say you want these irons because they make a special type of waffle, I'm assuming shape is the defining factor here? SO EITHER

....could you get a normal waffle iron and rape it of it's internal organs, shove them in the american iron and watch it go?

OR

My waffle irons are old school French jobbies, they are just some metal waffle shapes on some long old poles, you stick them on the stove to heat them up, then pour on the batter. Could you somehow weld some long poles to the form part of the waffle irons (disposing of the rest of the gubbins first) and use it as an old fashioned one?

 

[Billebaars]

So, in the end I've bypassed the thermal fuse by folding some copper wire between the gap. The iron is up and running, showing no differences than before the defect. This might not be the safest option and I'll probably be replacing it soon.

This brings me to my next question: anybody know where I can get a cheap waffle iron suitable for dutch syrup waffles (stroopwafels) which works on 230V. The dodgy one I have now is a Cuisinart Waffle Cone maker (see pic). The pattern of the irons are important for the waffles.

Thanks for all the tips.

 

[pushrod]

which then supplies one side of both elements that are wired in parallel. The fact that the 2 x 110 volt elements are in parallal is the reason they haven't blown, they are acting as a voltage divider so when supplied with 230v the volt drop across each element is approx half of that.

[.

Think you have got that wrong Marvo - if they are in parallel they will both have the full 230V across them. If they were in series they would be getting half that voltage each (assuming they are the same resistance).

Billebaars when i originally calculated the current i did not know there were 2 elements(had only read from my first post). If the figures in the photos refer to each element and if as you say they are in parallel then the resistance is effectively halved since R was 26Ω
1/Rt = 1/r1 + 1/r2.
So Rt =13Ω
This means that the total current it is pulling is I=V/R = 230/13 = 17.6A eek!!!

just as well it has only been on for a few minutes at a time and not surprising that i think you said it was heating up really quickly and drawing a lot of power. You were lucky it wasn't popping the fuses in the plug top. I bet the flex was getting hot as well. Put those elements in series and you will have a completely different iron - drawing only 4.4A

But more worryingly is what these excessive currents have done to the cables i reckon you need to bite the bullet with it or completely rebuild it and move to the states to access their supply voltage

edit just seen your post i wouldn't use it

 

[Billebaars]

This means that the total current it is pulling is I=V/R = 230/13 = 17.6A eek!!!

Would 17.6A not blow the 13A fuse in the plug? This doesn't occur

In addition, this appliance has been on a divider with other high power appliances and the fuse in the divider survived fine as well. Everything else in the iron seems fine and the smoke is actually from the remaining batter on the iron burning (by the smell of it)

Don't get me wrong, you're calculations don't lie, but the observations don't match. I can see if I can measure the power.

Thanks

 

[pushrod]

Fuses don't blow instantly when the current reaches that level - they have quite a bit of leeway built in. Something like 1.45 x rating for 30 mins and then it should have blown, rings a bell but would have to look it up to be certain.

Edit remember the rating of a fuse is the max current it can carry indefinitely, they only blow instantly when the current is many times the rating. On reflection think it is 1.45 times for 60 mins. Really not good - it will be stressing everything!

 

[Marvo]

Think you have got that wrong Marvo - if they are in parallel they will both have the full 230V across them. If they were in series they would be getting half that voltage each (assuming they are the same resistance).

Thanks Pushrod, you're spot on, at least one of us is awake.

I deleted that part from my post.

 

[Knobhead]

I can’t believe this thread!
People on this site bang on about the dangers of DIY electrical dabbling, and here it’s being actively encouraged.
At some point the thermostat will weld closed, the thermal fuse has got wire jammed in it!
Waffles won’t be the only things burnt!

 

[pushrod]

I can’t believe this thread!
People on this site bang on about the dangers of DIY electrical dabbling, and here it’s being actively encouraged.
At some point the thermostat will weld closed, the thermal fuse has got wire jammed in it!
Waffles won’t be the only things burnt!

Take your point but i think there is a lot of difference to a DIYer installing permanent circuits and a physics student having a play with an appliance like a waffle maker, which by its nature is never left alone and works for just 3 mins at a time. I think there has overall been a reasoned input with due regard to safety and certainly no one AFAIK condoned permanently shorting out the thermal cut out/fuse. Your post also being very useful in pointing out dangers.

I suspect that if there had been no input from members that the OP would have just carried on regardless and the end result could have been a lot worse

 

[Billebaars]

I would like to say that I very much appreciate the concern for the dangers of this project. This is definitely something I'm trying to take in consideration and I'm going down to an excellent hardware shop to see if I we can wire the elements serially (my own soldering won't do at these temperatures). In addition, I'll see if I can replace the serial fuse.
To add though, as pushrod said, I'll be in the presence of this machine at all times when it's on. Because of the high current, the iron heats in about 30 seconds at max setting before the bimetal thermostat kicks in. It remains hot and only about 10 second bursts of current at approx 10 min intervals from the thermostat is needed to keep it that way.

Despite the price, the iron seems fairly well constructed and all metal parts of it have been grounded (including the top cover). None of the parts or wires seem to have been affected (no burning/melting) by the high current except for the thermal fuse.
A fire extinguisher is present at all times in case it decides to catch fire.

Thanks for all the tips, folks. I'll keep this thread running for any updates.