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C

cyberjunction

please stay with me, still learning !! Going to a family member to replace cooker and hob.

Current set up,
C/U to Cooker switch 6mm.
Cooker switch to outle plate to Hob 6mm
Cooker Plugged into 13amp ring
40a MCB

The new cooker, is 2.3kW
Hob is 5.8kW
Total Power : 8.1kW - 36amps
With Diversity : 17.8amps 22.8 if with plug socket

I am looking at connecting both hob and cooker to the cooker outlet plate from the cooker switch as with diversity, the 6mm cable is more than capable and is allowed as per 8.4 of the OSG but question is from Cooker outlet plate should I be using 6mm for both the hob and oven to the cooker connection plate as they will joined or should can i reduce the size of cable to flex/1.5mm for the oven as its only 2.3kW? Thinking its going to be tight with 3 x 6mm cables!
Many thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello cyberjunction :tounge_smile:

there's quite a bit of room in an outlet, the terminals are fairly hefty too. If you plan it well, and take your time, as Tel has said it can be done, fiddley yes, but can be done.

I wired up a ceiling pull shower Isolator the other day, with the normal nightmare-ish 10mm2 cables in and out, ended up jumping into the loft over and over again getting the cables the right way round, with neutral/line the right side, took me AGES (I had time!) but it was a lovely job. Very satisfying. I'm ashamed to say I remember doing one years back and trying to force the damned thing together while I screwed it up and it all just shattered.


What I'm saying is if you think about exactly where each cable comes in, and how it sits, and keep all the ends that are bare beautiful and not mis-shapen, it will be a joy to behold in the end. ANd you'll be sure it'll never melt :33:

Hello mate -hope all's well !
 
richard & Des56 cheers
6mm to cooker switch
dual backbox with outlet to hob otherside to FCU although not accessible I cannot see anyway around it - will be going Saturday to double check to see if I can "make" it accesible in a cuboardboard.

Simple Simon > the spur would be coming off the cooker outlet plate which is behind the cooker unless I use a single cooker switch and double box at the switch !!
Its late...........
thanks again to all
 
Last edited by a moderator:
like des's method, but, at the end of the day, manufacturers instructions overrule any personal preferences. id boche say it's got to be wired in 10mm SWA< then that's what you have to use.
 
i agree des but if you want to nitpick the spur is not accesable is it

It had better be,otherwise this thread was a waste of time.
[ElectriciansForums.net] Cooker Advice - Please First One !

If it can be connected now,its accessable later
[ElectriciansForums.net] Cooker Advice - Please First One !
 
lost me again its a 2.4kw oven has it come with flex??? so there for it should be protected by a 13 amp fuse
hob is 5.8kw so stick them into the cooker outlet you have a 2.4kw oven protected by a 40 amp fuse thats not right

Just thinking out loud and depending on MI:

433.3.1 General
A device for protection against overload need not be provided:

(ii) for a conductor which, because of the characteristics of the load or the supply, is not likely to carry overload
current, provided that the conductor is protected against fault current in accordance with the requirements of
Section 434


Now, what's the chance of fixed resistive elements overloading the conductors of their supply cable?
I wouldn't but as I read it above, it seems possible.
 
like des's method, but, at the end of the day, manufacturers instructions overrule any personal preferences. id boche say it's got to be wired in 10mm SWA< then that's what you have to use.

I appreciate that will check the details when I get hold of them, just looking at different options so once I'm there I can just get on with it. 60 mile round trip for a family member - you just know its gonna be a ball ache !! Just want every option/suggestion to go with what I believe is right !

Off for some hard earned zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
cheers all
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Could you not take one of the 6mm into a surface socket so that the oven is protected by a 13 amp fuse. Alternatively use a switched fused spur and wire it in 2.5 t&e. Regs allow for this provided that the predicted load is less than the cabkle rating and the length of run is (i think) less than 4M.
 

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