Cooker cable - blowing fuse!

[arnoldlayne]

Hello all,

I have changed the cable on my Smeg SUK91MFA cooker as the old one was damaged.
The cable terminates into a standard 13A plug and had been fine for years. I replaced the cable like for like and replaced the original plug back on. I wired the cooker end of the cable L-N-E from left to right as I am sure(?) it was wired originally. Plugged the cooker in and it blew the plug fuse and flicked the corresponding MCB. I replaced the fuse, put the original cable back on to rule out the new cable being at fault, but same happened again.
Again I put on the new cable, replaced the fuse and plugged it into the socket with the socket switch being OFF, but it blew the fuse again!
I have replaced the socket thinking this was the source of the problem, replaced the fuse again and same thing happened - plug fuse blown and MCB flicked off.
The only options now are-
1. Faulty cooker - but it was fine prior to replacing the cable
2. I have connected the cable to the cooker incorerectly, but I'm sure(?) that I have connected it the same as it was.

Any ideas please?
Cheers

 

[Plonker 3]

I replaced the cable like for like and replaced the original plug back on. I wired the cooker end of the cable L-N-E from left to right as I am sure(?) it was wired originally.

This looks like the fault, you have to be certain you wired it correctly, not "I think" Sounds like you have got neutral and earth crossed somewhere, but without actually seeing the job I couldn't say for sure. If I was you I would call a electrician in. It shouldn't take long to sort out and be a damn site cheaper than a potential funeral. post your location up and I am sure there will be someone on here close to you who could come and repair it for you.

 

[telectrix]

don't think a N/E reversal would blow fuse. would trip RCD. more likely a fault L/E, either incorrectly connected or a short. as above, best to get a professional in. won't cost much to sort out.

 

[arnoldlayne]

Sheffield S8

I definately have the earth in the correct postion as it is marked with the usual symbol.
When I put a meter on the L and N conacts on the connection block on the rear of the cooker there is virtually zero resistance. Can this be correct?

Thanks

 

[Plonker 3]

Oh yes, still got my Stella head on from last night. :54:

 

[Plonker 3]

Sheffield S8

I definately have the earth in the correct postion as it is marked with the usual symbol.
When I put a meter on the L and N conacts on the connection block on the rear of the cooker there is virtually zero resistance. Can this be correct?

Thanks

No it doesn't sound right, sounds like you may have a short inside the oven. Maybe a element which should be replaceable.

 

[arnoldlayne]

No it doesn't sound right, sounds like you may have a short inside the oven. Maybe a element which should be replaceable.

That's what I was thinking, but it was fine before I took the cable off.
Also, would there be a switch in line that would mean it should read open circuit?

 

[snowhead]

When you say Zero resistance, do you mean 0 or very high?
You won't get any resistance reading till you turn an element on.

Does it have a timer?
Problem may be you've fried it.

Check the connections at the cooker end, is the screw holding the Live too far in, or twisted and earthing.

You need to be more than "Sure" you need to be 100% certain where the L and N and E go.

L and N reversed shouldn't blow the fuse, N is isolated from E within the cooker.

I suspect when you wired it up wrong you've caused the fault you now have.

The terminal block usually has 2 or 3 circuits connected from inside.
Disconnect them all and reconnect 1 at a time.
MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE ALL THE WIRES GO BEFORE IF YOU ARE GOING TO TAKE THEM OFF.

Better still give the job to someone with more knowledge, it may be cheaper in the end.

 

[arnoldlayne]

When you say no resistance, do you mean Zero or very high?


There is around 6 ohms

I suspect when you wired it up wrong you've caused the fault you now have.

Fair comment, but I'm still not convinced that I wired it up incorrectly


Check the connections at the cooker end, is the screw holding the Live too far in, or twisted and earthing.


All appear free of each other and the cooker chasis


Will report back if/when I find the solution

 

[TaffyDuck]

Well to be honest if you knew what you were doing you wouldn`t have to ask. Don`t forget to up your wife`s life insurance before Sunday dinner! No point it being a total loss :wink5:

 

[telectrix]

remove cable from cooker. put the ends in choc blocks. keep the kids and pets out of the way. power up. if it doesn't blow, then it's the connections to the cooker or the cooker itself.

or get a professional in with the knowledge and test gear to find the fault.

 

[Engineer54]

Most cookers/ovens have multi system wiring facility to meet the various wiring methods around Europe. Eg, 3 phase, 2 phase + N, Single phase. The connection block will incorporate shorting links in order to accommodate these various wiring systems. So you could well be wiring across two systems. ..lol!!

Go to the Smeg website to check your model against wiring methods, or maybe you will have a connection layout on the back of the cooker, or on the inside the termination cover...

Better still, get a qualified electrician in to sort this simple job out for you!! Simple for him, but a potential nightmare for those that can't understand what's going on in that connection box!! lol!!

 

[arnoldlayne]

Most cookers/ovens have multi system wiring facility to meet the various wiring methods around Europe. Eg, 3 phase, 2 phase + N, Single phase. The connection block will incorporate shorting links in order to accommodate these various wiring systems. So you could well be wiring across two systems. ..lol!!

Go to the Smeg website to check your model against wiring methods, or maybe you will have a connection layout on the back of the cooker, or on the inside the termination cover...

Better still, get a qualified electrician in to sort this simple job out for you!! Simple for him, but a potential nightmare for those that can't understand what's going on in that connection box!! lol!!

Ah, I think you're onto something there!
When I removed the old cable there were two links (which I thought were wire clamps) that fell out. I have not replaced them, but I can see from the diagram on the back of the cooker that they must be fitted in a certain configuration , as you correctly state.
I shall refit them and hopefully will be back in the good books (apart from just reversing the car into a post a Sainsburys earlier - not a good day)

Many thanks!!

 

[arnoldlayne]

There is nothing on the Smeg website that helps, or at least nothing that I can access without being a registered Smeg technician.

The labels on the back are as follows -



And the connection block -


It looks like terminals 1,2 and 3 should be linked together as should 4 and 5.
I have two links which takes care of 1,2 and 3 but no further link to join 4 and 5 and no obvious way of joining them even if i had an extra link.
This is so frustrating as I am so close to sorting having located the problem thanks to the last but one post

 

[telectrix]

deleted. wrong thinking. L to 1.2.3, N to 4,5, these should be factory linked.