Cooker Extractor Plug or not

[Deleted member 112675]

HI

I'd originally planned to have an mk grid switch located just above the worktop with four modules and each module a DP switch to isolate fridge, cooker fan, dishwasher and washing machine. Each switch would feed a spur to a single socket for each of those appliances. This is on the kitchen ring main. EAch appliance could thus be isolated and is fused by their respective plugs. I think/hope so far so good?

Then comes the issue which is the cooker hood plug socket location. I suppose I could try to hide it behing the hood or something like that but it doesn't seem very elegant or accessible. lI was thinking it might be better to chop the plug off and route the flex down to worktop level back to the DP switch but then it would only be protected by the 32a MCB.

The grid switch has 4 modules and they are all used (and sadly purchased). I haven't bought the extractor yet.

Any thoughts or advice most gratefully received.

 

[richy3333]

Buy an 8 module grid switch and some blanks? take the 4 way grid back?

unfused spur off the ring final circuit to an fcu?

 

[telectrix]

stick a socketor FCU above wall cupboards adjacent to cooker. kitchens are supposed to be functional ( e.g. for cooking etc. ). "elegant" is for bedrooms.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Do you own calcs, but I’d be looking to run a separate radial to the mini grid rather than further loading up the Kitchen RFC.

 

[GeorgeCooke]

HI

I'd originally planned to have an mk grid switch located just above the worktop with four modules and each module a DP switch to isolate fridge, cooker fan, dishwasher and washing machine. Each switch would feed a spur to a single socket for each of those appliances. This is on the kitchen ring main. EAch appliance could thus be isolated and is fused by their respective plugs. I think/hope so far so good?

Then comes the issue which is the cooker hood plug socket location. I suppose I could try to hide it behing the hood or something like that but it doesn't seem very elegant or accessible. lI was thinking it might be better to chop the plug off and route the flex down to worktop level back to the DP switch but then it would only be protected by the 32a MCB.

The grid switch has 4 modules and they are all used (and sadly purchased). I haven't bought the extractor yet.

Any thoughts or advice most gratefully received.

You don't need any of this, it is just the latest fad. Four items all at one place on the ring is not good practice either.

Put the cooker hood socket near the hood or perhaps in an adjacent wall cupboard.

 

[Midwest]

Put the socket outlet behind the chimney.

 

[Midwest]

You don't need any of this, it is just the latest fad. Four items all at one place on the ring is not good practice either.

I heard this stated on many threads, so not singling you out. In a typical domestic property, I see no reason why 'white' kitchen appliances can't be fed of RFC, e.g. ground floor one etc. In most installs, a fridge/fridge freezer, dishwasher, washing machine etc seem to work okay in most installs. I understand the 18th reg about 30% or whatever it is. But I never came accross a problem with it?

 

[UKMeterman]

Hang on, do some maths and apply brain, domestic cooker hood next to zip load put 20 A DP switch in the grid, either use the fuse module to put the fuse next to the switcch and run 1mm t+E to an outlet plate, or run 2.5 t+e to a fused outlet plate job done... The rules are trying to prevent Kw+ point loads!

 

[Deleted member 112675]

Hang on, do some maths and apply brain, domestic cooker hood next to zip load put 20 A DP switch in the grid, either use the fuse module to put the fuse next to the switcch and run 1mm t+E to an outlet plate, or run 2.5 t+e to a fused outlet plate job done... The rules are trying to prevent Kw+ point loads!

Hi thanks those two options makes perfect sense from a purely and 100% wiring regs standpoint and I may yet indeed end up doing one of those. In fact I probably will BUT it is sub optimal from the perspective of the overall job.

Why? A larger grid or an extra fcu plus flex outlet is an eye sore. A hidden 13a plug is not although the latter solution is far from being technically elegant.

While I'm here, why do these fans all come with plugs? Maybe there are some that don't?

 

[UKMeterman]

You will have a chimney or high level cupboard associated with this fan. Put the 13A socket or outlet plate above / behind as appropriate.

 

[Midwest]

You will have a chimney or high level cupboard associated with this fan. Put the 13A socket or outlet plate above / behind as appropriate.

See Posts 3 and 6.

 

[jackhammerJIM]

FCU in nearby wall unit or above worktop , 1mm to hood ,chop plug off , join through with click flo connector .

 

[Andy78]

FCU in nearby wall unit or above worktop , 1mm to hood ,chop plug off , join through with click flo connector .

This is usually the easiest option as most hoods just come with a bare flex these days. A Click plug means anyone can connect it up and no return visit. Either that or I sometimes favour a flex outlet plate if I'm putting the hood up myself.