Cooker hob installation question

[irrelevant name]

Hi iv just fitted a cooker hob to a newly fitted kitchen, the junction box for the hob and oven was already there and the cooker switch too, in other words it was all there and ready to go it just needed a heat resistant flex for the hob, however when i lifted the panel over the terminals to connect the cable. It had the CPC terminal, the neutral, and the set of phase terminals with the links in place joining them. The problem is that between the first phase terminal and the second the link was missing. At the time I thought it was maybe meant to be like that when being installed directly to a normal single phase cooker switch, so I inserted the phase secured everything back in place and tested the hob it appeared to be operating correctly, anyway later after the hob had been re inserted into the worktop I was looking at the operating instructions book and the diagram showed a link between all of the phase terminals including the one I used. Anyway as I'm a plumber not a sparky I asked one of my friends that is a partly qualified sparky and he said it needs all the links in place and he didn't think it would work without them and wasn't sure if there could be a problem with having one missing even though it appeared to be working anyway. So my question is that basically, is that link essential and needed to be replaced or will the hob work fine as it Is. I haven't finished the plumbing work in that property so il be returning to do that anyway so if necessary i can rectify the link issue if it needs to be.

Cheers any advice would be appreciated

 

[Doomed]

http://www.matrixappliances.co.uk/_Downloads/Manuals/MHC001FR.pdf

Look at page 6 for the link arrangement, 2 links needed, also it should not be on a plug top, which means it should have its own isolator and supply (separate to the oven)

 

[davesparks]

When i was in college they taught us to use a heat resistant flex for cooker and hob installations and for a hob to use 6mm cable if it will fit but if not 4mm but there was a calculation to work it out exactly although I can't remember it I just asked a friend who's a sparky and he said the 4mm would be fine for the hob and the 2.5mm heat resistant would do for the oven but what the kitchen fitter has used is not heat resistant and as for the testing of the existing work I was taught to atleast use the basic testing procedures: continuity, polarity, continuity of CPC and insulation resistance and as far as fitting a spur goes I'm a plumber I have to fit spurs /QUOTE]

Well I prefer to work to the regulations which permit the use of T&E for the connection of cookers.
That is a ridiculous way to size a cable, using the biggest which fits!
Do you fit ferrules to the ends of the flex? Or do you just put an unprotected fine stranded conductor into screw terminals?
That's a start to testing, but without an earth fault loop impedance test how on earth are you going to know whether there is an earth there at all or if the fuse/mcb will operate? There's no point having a nice continuous CPC if it's not actually connected to earth.

You don't have to fit spurs,

 

[Doomed]

Do you fit ferrules to the ends of the flex? ,

Now, there is an interesting point.
With alot of oven and hobs they have cage clamp arrangements, so a ferrules is not needed, in fact sometimes I have found them more awkward in this situation and only use them on screw terminal normally.

 

[davesparks]

Now, there is an interesting point.
With alot of oven and hobs they have cage clamp arrangements, so a ferrules is not needed, in fact sometimes I have found them more awkward in this situation and only use them on screw terminal normally.

Unless there is proof that the terminal is designed for fine stranded conductors then you shouldn't assume that it is suitable.
Even though it's pretty damned obvious from looking at it as to whether or not it needs ferrules