Cooker hood circuit board keeps frying

[sven]

Hi, I am looking for a bit of advice on what may be causing the cooker hood circuit board to stop working.
In four weeks it has blown twice, at £50 delivered a go. The hood is a Designair FGHD60ss,sealed ducting to outside, it is connected via moulded 13amp plug to socket in stainless steel chimney area(not exposed to moisture) connected to fan isolation switch, then to kitchen ring main. The ring main is protected by a 63a RCD. I believe that it is caused by the switching of the 45A cooker switch which is on an unprotected circuit. It seems to have blown the circuit board next time I tried to use the hood. Question is, is there something that could/should be inline to the cooker hood/45A cooker switch. I don't want to spend another £50 for it just to go pop again. But I am also considering bypassing the circuit board and just using the fan isolation switch to turn it on and off, basically just having a single speed fan. It may just be the the cooker hood is of a poor design/reputation.
Any ideas would be helpful. sven

 

[DPG]

What fuse is in the 13A plug? Hoods usually only need a 3A or 5A - if it's a 13A and it's not blowing it might not explain the cause of the problem but a lower-rated fuse might at least protect your board.

PJ

Can't imagine a brief spike blowing a plug fuse. Especially before the sensitive electronics get zapped. I'd be going with the surge arrestor/varistor idea. Worth a go for a pound or two. Daz

 

[telectrix]

maybe if the pcb was located in the hood instead of the frying pan, it would not fry?????

 

[snowhead]

I'd be looking for poor or crossed connections, maybe neutral, causing the cooker circuit to use the hood circuit as a return.

Effectively hood in series with cooker, it's only going to go bang then..

 

[Octopus]

If the hoods are brand new I'd be getting them replaced by the person who sold them to you.

 

[Sparkysoldman]

New hood is £ 99 why faff about

 

[lightitup]

Thanks for replying Marvo
View attachment 20987View attachment 20988

No Damage apparent, it is the button board. no marks whatsoever on it, I was assuming it maybe some kind of electrical spike in operating the 45A cooker switch that did it. I don't normally turn it off, but both times the hood has failed I have used the 45A switch. I was hoping it would be a case of inserting a suppression inline somewhere.
I think I might have to bypass the board and go for single speed, turbo stylie.
Gut says its not anything that controlled by the board ( and I have a big gut )

Hi SVEN, dont suppose you still have one of the PCB boards lying around, I'm looking to repare one and the R2 resistor is cooked and I can't ID it, I google lens'd my board and found this post, I know it's an old post but worth a crack

 

[lightitup]

Thanks for replying Marvo
View attachment 20987View attachment 20988

No Damage apparent, it is the button board. no marks whatsoever on it, I was assuming it maybe some kind of electrical spike in operating the 45A cooker switch that did it. I don't normally turn it off, but both times the hood has failed I have used the 45A switch. I was hoping it would be a case of inserting a suppression inline somewhere.
I think I might have to bypass the board and go for single speed, turbo stylie.
Gut says its not anything that controlled by the board ( and I have a big gut )

Sorry R8

 

[DPG]

Sorry R8

Welcome to the forum. This thread is 10 years old though, and it doesn't look like the OP is a member on here any more.