Cooker. supplieed via a switch direct.

[adam1984]

Hi all

6mm Cable runs from Fuseboard into a 45amp DP swith for the cooker. (Cooker load is 7kw)
Can the cable run directly from the switch into the cooker or does it have to go from the switch to a cooker connection unit and then a cable from the ccu to the cooker?

I cannot see anything in the regs book but i may have missed it in there.

 

[Engineer54]

Never needed to, and never have or will fit sockets, switches, etc to kitchen base/wall cabinet carcases on a new installation. Never come across a kitchen or kitchenette too small, to mount CCU's socket outlet(s), switches above worktops either.

 

[adam1984]

And there was me thinking it was an existing installation!! lol!!

I was actually referring to the trend of new kitchen builds where everything is, or has to be hidden in cupboards, with absolutely no thought as to the workability of a modern kitchen...

However, in you're case it sounds a bit strange to me, 99.5% of all kitchens have been provided with a cooker isolator at the time of electrical installation and have done, since the early 50's!!

If you are so worried about the aesthetics, WHY is the 6mm cable clipped direct from the CU to the kitchen?? Surface mounted/clipped direct cable doesn't count then??

Previous electrician / home owner took the original cooker cable and circuit and has put an electric shower on it in the bathroom directly behind the kitchen.

The property is a bungalow. Fuseboard in garage. Cable is run in the loft space (which is above garage) and clipped above insulation to the joists and then drops down into the kitchen right in the corner and then runs behind a wall cabinet and through the worktop into base unit. The only trunking that can be seen is a 30cm piece right in the corner.

 

[Engineer54]

Previous electrician / home owner took the original cooker cable and circuit and has put an electric shower on it in the bathroom directly behind the kitchen.

The property is a bungalow. Fuseboard in garage. Cable is run in the loft space (which is above garage) and clipped above insulation to the joists and then drops down into the kitchen right in the corner and then runs behind a wall cabinet and through the worktop into base unit. The only trunking that can be seen is a 30cm piece right in the corner.

From fuse board (32a MCB) 6mm T&E clipped direct

That description is not what the above is implying!!


So you have run a 6mm T&E through a wall cabinet and worktop into a base cabinet, is that right??

 

[adam1984]

Engineer54- you said 99.5% of homes built after 1950 were built with a cooker point.

My response to this: The previous owner / Electrician used the "old" cooker circuit for a shower circuit.

The new cable for the cooker is on a seperate 32a MCB, drops down into the kithen, behind a wall cabinet ( not in/through)
The cable is then in mini trunking between the wall cabinet and worktop.
The cable then goes through the worktop and drops into a base unit to a 45a switch

 

[SJD]

Sounds about right, ...the so-called modern thinking!! Bung the cooker isolation switch at the back of a kitchen base unit, that you need fight through all the pot's and pans to get too!!

A new kitchen (part of an extension that I'm doing the electrics for), I'd already first fixed hob and oven isolators at socket level, and connection units in the right places, per the customers plans.

The kitchen fitter came along and required the isolators to be moved to the back of a deep cupboard above the high-level oven, so you'd probably need a ladder to reach them, as well as empty the pots and pans. Apparently that's how it's best done nowadays!

The fitter also said no need for connection units, just leave tails from the isolators hanging out the wall for them to connect. I wasn't there at the time, but the builder (who was) convinced the customer to at least keep these.

 

[snowhead]

Customer doesnt want a 50mm deep pattress on the wall tiles with trunking (its their kitchen and they will have to look at it every day) so a switch hidden and easily accessable in a base unit seems the next best option.

The customer will be the first to complain when the cooker stops working and they call in another electrician, or you back, and the fault was a saucepan handle had been jammed against the hidden switch and turned it off.
They'd have to pay the electrician, they wouldn't be paying you.

They'll say it was your fault you should have advised them not to hide it.

And the customer doesn't decide the regs or best working practice, sometimes they can't always have it their way.